Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

A forlorned mattress that has been abandoned in the street.

Stinky.

We found this on the sidewalk on the north side of Invalides.

It’s probably more accurate to say that we smelled it, saw it, walked by it, and then I turned around and took a picture of it for reasons unknown.

This is also probably an argument against picking up the camera I’ve had my eye on. While I keep kicking myself for forgetting to take my camera and the lenses out of the drawer before the entire house was neatly wrapped up in cardboard boxes, packing paper, and tape, I’m not sure hey, there’s a mattress over there… my god does it stink, I’m going to take a picture really bodes well.

There's a moat around this place. I'm not sure why an old soldiers' home needed a moat.

Oh, yeah… this is Invalides.

It’s tourist season.

Wide-eyed, badly-dressed, rolling two massive suitcases apiece, wearing baseball caps, schlubby shorts, and high white socks; these are the people that are seriously fucking up the commute in the morning. From the statistics that I saw, almost 10% of France’s GDP comes from tourism, but man, you can see the natives seething as they have to divert around another herd of loud, lost Americans (or Russians, Brits, or Chinese; you know it’s an American before they even open their mouth, though (alternate case: you hear ’em before you can even see ’em)).

It’s not necessarily all wine, cheese, and rays though; I saw a couple this morning sporting mouse ears and the most tired, shell-shocked expressions I have yet seen in the metro. Evidently, French Mickey Mouse bites.

Categories: life

Our run along the Seine yesterday turned into an extended run/hike/run after we decided that we were far enough along and that it was early enough in the morning to make it to the Marché aux Oiseaux (open-air bird market on the Île de la Cité [the island in the Seine upon which Notre Dame sits]).

Exiting the broken-glass-strewn (the Fête de la Musique is evidently considerably rowdier in this district) path/quai along the river, we found ourselves on the sidewalk adjacent to Pont Neuf.

At the intersection was a very nice Audi, driven by a very sharply-dressed man in his 30s, who was remarkable only because he couldn’t drive a stick to save his life. We first noted that something was amiss when the white A4, with a long line of traffic behind it, wasn’t going anywhere, even well after the light became green. Then, as he erratically attempted to move himself into a turn lane, I noted to the Purrito that he couldn’t drive a manual transmission. The raised eyebrow she gave me became a knowing giggle as the nice man in the sports car that he couldn’t drive gunned the engine and proceeded to murder second gear, which shrieked in protest. We laughed again, turned away, and continued on our way as the Audi lurched and howled as its driver apparently gave up and decided that first gear and a bit of clutch slippage were all he needed.

While we’re eligible for a French driver’s license by virtue of holding a Texas license (assuming we’re willing to surrender our licenses at the préfecture), I’m inclined to pass; I’d be fine, transmission-wise, but navigating a city whose streets were set up for horse and foot traffic is another matter entirely.

Categories: life

As it turns out, the washing machine in our nice little apartment, itself located on a nice little street in a nice little neighborhood, sucks; aside from an unholy funk that has proven resistant to industrial-grade washing machine cleaner, it is incapable of handling more than a token amount of clothes at a given time, lest it begin to walk into and then pound away at the nearest wall.

Thus I’m sitting at a laundromat.

Washing machines are apparently incredibly uncommon in Parisian apartments, so I find myself wondering how or where the people at work wash their clothes; does everybody use a laundry service, or is there a designated sit-at-the-laundromat-with-wine-and-maybe-a-non-stinky-cheese day? Are there secret laundry clubs and services that I, as an outsider, are not party to, as the only people that have wandered in are two guys in their late 40s or early 50s and a 20-something dudebro type.

Whatever the case, I’m (still) sitting here, with the Purrito, watching clothes spin.

I will note that I’ve been amused at the older guys; they’re both washing too many clothes at the same time and mixing items that shouldn’t be mixed; bachelor laundry, it seems, is a cross-cultural constant.

Categories: life

The French version of AT&T, Orange, shocked everybody involved and came through for us. Early.

Let that sink in for a minute: the French version of AT&T had our line provisioned and the equipment in our hands a full ten days ahead of schedule. If I believed in Karma banks, I’d posit that our attempts to be nice to the angry boulangerie lady and my propensity for giving up my metro seat to little old ladies (seriously, why are there statistically significant instances of them on the M1 at rush hour?) were clear contributing factors, but then I’d be full of shit.

Moreso anyway.

I am not used to being in such large groups of people and not understanding any of them. When I came to visit Geep a few weeks back, I didn’t venture out on my own very much. Plus, he was with me to have conversations with while we walked around. Now that most of the day consists of me venturing out into the wild-french-yonder alone, I have discovered that I kind of miss people. There is no sensation quite like when you are on a huge galleria-type mall, surrounded by thousands of tourists and french alike, and you still feel isolated. Sometimes, you even feel mute when all you can say are the simple pleasantries of the daily routine: bonjour, merci, etc. it takes getting used to. However, once the internet is up and running and we are not confined to using the data on our phones carefully, so we don’t run out, then I will be able to locate some fellow expats. Luckily the temporary gloom seems to have lifted and today feels better. One of the saving graces of this beginning phase, is our close proximity to….. everything. One of the first few nights we were here, we decided to go see the Eiffel. It is only about a ten minute hike from our place and it doesn’t get dark here until close to 10:30pm. It was a nice change to see it up close as opposed to through a speeding car window. It is quite the pretty thing. We meandered around and underneath it, picked up some ice cream, and stood back by the Seine to take in the then lit tower. Then it began to sparkle! ( video will be posted once internet arrives). The crowd collectively gasped and cameras quickly left pockets. I was among them. It’s the constant ebbe and flow of feelings like that that keep me happy. Until I can learn a bit more French and find some English speakers, I have to remember that for everyday that feels lonely, there will be a day where I am bursting at the seams. And not due to the amount of wine, cheese, and bread we are eating.

(Last of the catching up)

June 5th, 2014

After waiting all day for an update on the cats, I finally received a phone call letting me know they were on their way. At around 6pm, the French driver( who only spoke French) called us looking for our place. Luckily we were downstairs because we had been watching traffic from the balcony. Anything big enough to truck three cats and their huge crates grabbed our attention. We chased him down and managed to communicate that the three unhappy felines in his vehicle were, in fact, ours. We followed him to where he was parked and waited anxiously to see if they would be alive when the doors swung open. Shockingly, they were. Red was closest to the front; eyes wide with an “I’ve seen some shit” nam-cat expression. Aurora was a small furball with blown pupils swallowed in the sheer size of her cage. Fezzik, most surprisingly, looked bored. He didn’t look butthurt, scared, frazzled, or anything like we thought. He looked bored and smug. The bastard.
We signed the papers and headed back across the street. A processional of crying cats and a strong cat urine odor. I’m sure the later accounted for the looks we were getting from the women we passed on the street. You can’t be mad at them, it’s a long scary flight. When you have to go, you have to go. Once we made it into our building, sent them up the elevator one with me, the next two on their own, we went inside and let them free. Aurora slowly emerged and began howling. Pretty normal for her. She and Red quickly found the closest hiding place (under the bed) after receiving ample pets from two apologetic pet parents. Fezzik, the bastard, practically danced out. He wandered around, randomly laying on the floor, only to get back up to go plant his ass somewhere else. He even ate some food and meowed his pathetic little happy meow. We were truly shocked. We were expecting to have a Fezzik Watch 2014 for the blog containing various pictures of his tail sticking out from random places as he hid from the world. It’s what he did every time we moved. Apparently, Fezzik was made for Paris. He seemed genuinely happy in our little place. He adopted a “le meow” attitude immediately. We almost felt bad that he has to, eventually, go back to Houston. Perhaps, Fezzik did know that, deep down, he could fly. Paris just happened to be wings he was looking for.

Categories: cats

From my journal:

June 4th, 2014

The cats are currently in the air and headed, hopefully alive, to Paris. Geep and I talked about putting a GoPro camera in their crates so we could witness the process and see their faces. Since they are on the way, I needed to go fetch kitty supplies sans Geep since he had to work. There are not many dedicated pet stores in Paris. I’m guessing most people just feed their cats Friskies and call it a day, but not our cats. They require good food thanks to a few with sensitive tummies and weight problems. ( hey, he isn’t fat! Just tubby…). After looking online, I found one about 20 minutes by metro away from home near Hôtel de Ville called BHV/Marquis. I have never done the metro alone before, but I figured I would give it a shot and go for it. Luckily, it was a success. I located the shop pretty easily and was pleased to discover a plethora of cat paraphernalia. I grabbed a small basket and began filling it with the essentials: expensive cat food, squishy food for Aurora, cat box, weird crystal liter, bowls, mats, etc. I had enough good fortune to find an associate there who spoke decent English. He was even kind enough to show me where a few things were and teach me a little french. Merci! After dropping some €€€ on les chats, I had the pleasure of dragging all of this stuff home on the metro alone. That in itself was an adventure.
Once I returned, I had to venture back out to procure some food for us at home. I had decided to go to one of their chain grocery stores called Carrefour since I wasn’t feeling confident enough to try to talk directly to produce vendors just yet. I learned two things there, you can’t go to a “big” grocery store in Paris and find everything you need, and Carrefour is like a Whole Foods equivalent. In other words, it was pricey. No way we could continue to spend that amount on food each day! I guess I must suck it up and go to the vendors on Rue Cler to save money. Plus, it’s probably better quality.
All in all, it was a productive day. Geep was impressed by my bravery to wander Paris by myself, let alone the metro. I figured I should do it so we could relax a bit. I hope the kittens are okay, and who knows, maybe they will enjoy flying.