Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

The Basilique de Saint-Denis is a strange place. Originally a shrine built over the site to which Saint-Denis, a patron saint of Paris, supposedly carried his head after a 10-kilometer hike from his place of execution atop Montmartre, the site would eventually become, with some coaxing by Saint-Louis, the French royal necropolis, with nearly every ruler from the 10th century (I can now say that I’ve seen the gisant [effigy tomb] of Charles the Hammer) onward buried there.

The supposed burial place of Saint-Denis. (Supposed due to the lack of any human corpses)

The supposed burial place of Saint-Denis. (Supposed due to the lack of any human corpses)

Robespierre, in a fit of Terror-fuelled revolutionary fervor (or perhaps, more prosaically, simple grave-pissing), ordered that the tombs be cracked open and the corpses thrown in pits with quicklime. The bones, completely unidentifiable and unsortable, would be placed en masse in an ossuary during the Restoration, while Louis XVI’s and Marie-Antoinette’s bones would be plucked from Madeleine cemetery and re-interred in the new “Bourbon Crypt.”

The inhabitants of the ossuary (removed from their quicklime pits during the restoration).

The inhabitants of the ossuary (removed from their quicklime pits during the restoration).

The Bourbon crypt, which contains Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette's re-interred remains.

The Bourbon crypt, which contains  the re-interred remains of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.

It’s a strange history.

The sculpture from one of the many (empty) cadaver tombs.

The sculpture from one of the many (empty) gisants.

A fair number of the effigies have dogs or lions at their feet (in at least one case, the animal was snuggled up to the feet, as opposed to being stood on). The ferret seems to be unique, though.

A fair number of the effigies have dogs or lions at their feet (in at least one case, the animal was snuggled up to the feet, as opposed to being stood upon). This ferret seems to have turned the tables, though.

One of the more elaborate tombs.

One of the more elaborate tombs.

The altar, flanked by stained glass windows.

The altar, flanked by stained glass windows.

Marie Antionette and Louis XVI (commissioned during the restoration by Louis XVIII).

Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI (commissioned during the restoration by Louis XVIII).

The heart of the 10-year-old dauphin, who was neglected to death. Secretly preserved by the physician that performed the autopsy, the heart was guarded by various royal families and finally DNA tested and interred in 2004.

The heart of the 10-year-old dauphin, who was intentionally neglected to death. Secretly preserved by the physician that performed the autopsy, the heart was guarded by various royal families and finally DNA tested and interred in 2004.

Today, what is regarded as the first example of gothic architecture sits in the town of Saint-Denis, a northern suburb of Paris. Saint-Denis the banlieue (technically just a word for suburb, but now tinged with the negative connotation implying high concentrations of low-income housing projects) is a complete shithole, with various people I’ve talked to having expressed surprise that we’d be so bold as to venture up there, and even my French tutor having said that she’d avoid anywhere other than the cathedral itself.

The front of the basilica, which is currently undergoing restoration. The city of Saint-Denis is supposedly attempting to secure financing for the reconstruction of the tower that was removed from the left side of the building (the stones are apparently stored on-site somewhere).

The front of the basilica, which is currently undergoing restoration. The city of Saint-Denis is supposedly attempting to secure financing for the reconstruction of the tower that was removed from the left side of the building during the 19th century (the original stones are actually stored on-site).

Exterior shot. Several sources note that this is the first Gothic building.

Exterior shot. Several sources note that this is the first Gothic building.

Fleurs-de-lis on the exterior façade.

Fleurs-de-lis on the exterior façade.

There is a parallel (and a dichotomy) with Versailles here, but I’m still mulling it over, still unable to verbally articulate my thoughts on the entangled mess.

A shot of the lovely apartment buildings that surround the basilica.

A shot of the lovely apartment buildings that surround the basilica.

I wonder if Robespierre would be proud.

I officially gave up on acquiring a copy of Charlie Hebdo today. The latter days of my search last week seemed to indicate that salvation was to be had on Monday, with “possible deliveries” scheduled.

Such was not the case, though.

Perhaps amusingly, on the first day of its release (the day on which the first printing run sold out before 0600), I saw somebody reading a copy on the métro.

In the realm of the distinctly non-funny but related news that I’m dredging up because two weeks have passed, said terrorists (the unfunny part) stole my birthday (the potentially funny part, at least if 17 people hadn’t been killed).

After raining on everybody’s parade on Wednesday, they then decided to take it further and ruin what was to be the birthday dinner at Ralph’s on Friday; while we technically could have gone (and while the woman on the phone actually seemed a bit taken aback that we were rescheduling; something surprising to us given how empty the streets were, even though the dual sieges had been brought to their respective ends), dressing up and t-rexing (it’s a thing) shrimp cocktail and eating tuna steak burgers and carrying on didn’t seem appropriate.

We did, however, have a big damn bottle of champagne (magnum-sized champagne bottles: instant class) in the fridge, so we ordered pizza, drank the wine (terrorists hate wine), and watched The Big Lebowski (I’m pretty sure terrorists hate The Big Lebowski).

Magnum bottles. Glorious, aren't they?

Magnum bottles. Glorious, aren’t they?

Say what you want about the tenets of national socialism, dude, at least it’s an ethos.

We spend enough time taking pictures of large objects at close range (and taking pictures of very large objects at medium range) that I had been considering picking up another fisheye for a while.

That’s how I justified it to myself, anyway.

Here’s Invalides through the eyes of a salmon, if salmon could breathe air and walk around as opposed to gasping for air, flopping about, and hoping that a wandering sushi chef doesn’t observe their foray into Paris.

Fisheye lesson the first: know where your feet are in relation to the frame.

Fisheye lesson the first: know where your feet are in relation to the frame.

Ah, that's better. Infinite depth of field makes focusing idiot-proof. Theoretically.

Ah, that’s better. Infinite depth of field makes focusing idiot-proof. Theoretically.

Not that interesting at first glance; the cobblestones, however, make the distortion evident, as do the apparently concave walls to either side of the frame.

Not that interesting at first glance; the cobblestones, however, make the distortion evident, as do the apparently concave walls along either side of the frame.

Large area, inside photography: the reason I bought my first fisheye several years ago (that and boredom, I suppose).

Large scale indoor photography: the reason I bought my first fisheye several years ago (that and boredom, I suppose).

The tomb of Napoleon  as seen from above. The framing is slightly off, but I like this picture. A lot.

The tomb of Napoleon as seen from above. The framing is slightly off, but I like this picture. A lot.

Better framing here, but worse lighting conditions.

Better framing here, but the lighting isn’t sufficient.

The ceiling of the tomb. another instance of large circular object plus spherical working fairly well together.

The ceiling of the tomb: Another instance of large circular object plus spherical working fairly well together.

Shiny.

Shiny.

Statue before....

Photo before….

...and photo de-fished.

…and photo de-fished.

This one came out better than I thought it would (just have to keep the subject at the center of the frame). (The object in question is the breastplate of a French cuirasser that was killed at Waterloo).

This one came out better than I thought it would (just have to keep the subject at the center of the frame). (The object in question is the breastplate of a French cuirasser that was killed at Waterloo).

My shadow ruins it, but the perspective is kinda neat. (Thanks for the idea, dude-laying-on-the-cannon-holding-an-iPhone-to-the-gun-sights).

My shadow ruins it, but the perspective is kinda neat. (Thanks for the idea, dude-laying-on-the-cannon-holding-an-iPhone-to-the-gun-sights).

The Purrito is off to the US for a few days to take care of a few things and stash some of the loot that we’ve acquired.

I am thus once more alone in France, though this time responsible for three cats.

I suppose I should inform them that the food fairy is MIA; unless a replacement suddenly materializes, we’re all likely to starve.

Categories: life

I confess that, until very recently, I had been unaware of this Windows feature: the US-international keyboard.

Instead of using the character map like an illiterate savage or having to remember alt-codes like a linux-humping greybeard, it’s possible to add accents, cedillas, and even circumflexes in an idiot-proof fashion. It’s detailed in KB97738.

Goodbye feeling like an idiot for fumbling with the character map, hello not looking like an asshole for omitting accents grave in peoples’ names.

Categories: life

At the beginning of the period of lunacy that we otherwise referred to as December 2014, the Purrito and I went to see the Jeff Koons exhibit at Pompidou Centre (the Purrito was supposed to be working on a post entitled Pompidon’t (given that the hold period for the name has expired, I’m shamelessly appropriating it), which gives you some idea of our impression of this particular venue, and the experience was, shall we say, interesting.

From my superficial knowledge of the art world, it would seem that Koons is a polarizing figure; he seems to be reviled by the Art is Important crowd while being beloved by the people that actually shell out money for art (check the selling prices for some of his more recent pieces; I seem to recall reading that one of them set a record for most expensive piece by a living artist with a sale price that was in the neighborhood of $23 million). The Purrito has (jokingly) suggested that I begin compiling what is tentatively titled The Engineer’s Guide to Art, which would, at the moment, largely consist of me ranting about the atrocity that is impressionism (seriously guys, you ruined the still life), except for that Monet painting of turkeys, which is awesome, because it’s a huge, wall-eating painting of turkeys.

Terminating that particular tangent before we get too far off track, we return to Koons; I found myself grinning and giggling through the exhibit to the point that the Purrito pointedly asked me if I was indeed enjoying myself. I was; I can’t speak to artistic intent, but it seems to me (uh oh, just made a philosophical statement about authorial/artistic intent) that Koons is significantly more meta than the exhibit explanations gave him credit for, and instead, might be of the gleeful opinion that art is bullshit, but that doesn’t mean you can’t wrap it in a cute bow and sell it to people.

The Koons exhibit itself, entertaining as it was, however, is not what has been gnawing at the back of my mind. The exhibit had what the Purrito has termed a “naughty room,” something that it had in common with both the Robert Mapplethorpe exhibit that we saw over the summer and with the Sade: Attack the Sun exhibit that we saw a few weeks ago at Musee d’Orsay. In the case of the Jeff Koons exhibit, the “naughty room” was a mostly-enclosed room (a docent was stationed outside to prevent the too-young from entering) that featured four pieces from his Made in Heaven series, the center (and best shielded) piece being Ilona’s Asshole, which is a large scale photograph of his then-soon-to-be-wife’s shaved, bleached asshole (she was, at the time, an Italian porn actress). Oh, and, his dick in her cooch. The Mapplethorpe exhibit’s room had a collection of his more borderline-pornographic photography, and was anchored by his somewhat infamous self-portrait (Mapplethorpe from the rear holding a bullwhip adjacent to his asshole). I can’t actually remember what made up the Sade exhibit’s naughty room, but I remembered wondering how those pieces in particular were materially “worse” than the rest of the exhibit (which featured some of the best romantic painters’ most violent, sexual, depictions of sex and death and war.

I find myself wondering: will we ever be so freely exposed to ideas again? As it’s my argument, I’m going to pre-empt the obvious “do we need to see this,” “it’s filth,” “think of the children,” “it’s obscene,” “what about jesus.” I don’t feel the need to entertain bullshit. That said, neither of us can think of an exhibit in the States that has ever had one of these rooms. I find myself wondering if exhibits with what I can only describe as non-puritanical content come to the coasts, as they certainly don’t come to Texas; as I wrote the initial draft of this post, one of the headline articles on the Houston Chronicle website was Scandalous Elf on the Shelf Pictures (just to be clear, the article itself was uncomfortably lacking in the irony department). The Chron is a terrible paper, particularly for a city of Houston’s size, with vapid content (and it’s written below the typical 8th grade reading level that used to be the standard for newspapers), but it’s representative of the city to which we return, which is why I’m asking the question: will we ever be happy in Houston again? Will we really be able to simply return and settle back in to the banal routine that is life in flyover country?

Prior to the current sudden invasion of tourists (spending Christmas and New Year in a hotel is popular. Who knew?), we went to Versailles, which was both good and bad; the good came from the fact that, due to it being the weekend before Christmas, it was essentially empty, while the bad came from the fact that the arguably-primary draw is the garden, which obviously wasn’t in bloom, given the time of year.

Fewer words, more pictures:

An RER C train. An establishing shot, if you will.

An RER C train. An establishing shot, if you will.

No real comment needed.

No real comment needed.

The chateau exterior, as seen from the courtyard.

The chateau exterior, as seen from the courtyard.

The gardens, as seen from the rear of the chateau.

The gardens, as seen from the rear of the chateau.

The rear of the chateau, as seen from the garden adjacent to the Grand Canal.

The rear of the chateau, as seen from the garden adjacent to the Grand Canal.

The queen's hamlet (her own personal pastoral disneyland).

The queen’s hamlet (her own personal pastoral disneyland).

What farm would be complete without pigeons?

What farm would be complete without pigeons?

A nasty shit-producing machine.

A nasty shit-producing machine.

huge cocks

Huge roosters.

Guineas motoring around (it's what guineas do).

Guineas motoring around (it’s what guineas do).

Goat.

Goat.

A strange twisty-horned sheep.

A strange twisty-horned sheep.

Donkey!

Donkey!

Fezzik sheep.

Fezzik sheep.

Sheep in a field.

Sheep in a field.

A nice ceiling.

A nice ceiling.

A random aesthetically-pleasing painting.

A random aesthetically-pleasing painting.

The king's bedroom.

The king’s bedroom.

The queen's bedroom.

The queen’s bedroom.

Fucking Laplace.

Fuckin’ Laplace.

Courtyard view towards the street.

Courtyard view towards the street.

Contrary to the potential implication of the title, this isn’t a tale of woe; we’re not feeling alienated, lonely, isolated, or fantasizing about being the main character in that Folgers commercial that’s (probably still) being aired, despite the fact that Peter finished college, married his sweetheart, became a banker, developed a coke habit, voted for Bush the first, cheated on his wife with a stripper, got divorced, voted for Dole, went into rehab, voted for Nader, divorced the stripper, traveled to India, came back, moved to Colorado, and now runs a yoga and spiritual enlightenment studio, fancying himself a scrawnier (read: paunchier and shorter) Tony Robbins.

Ahem.

No, our tale involves consuming a meal in the French tradition (the big meal is on Christmas eve), hosting a fellow expat for said meal, cooking duck a l’orange (kudos go out to the Purrito, who had never before cooked duck), drinking a couple of bottles of wine, laughing at our festive llama, and exchanging gifts.

llama!

The decorative spread, complete with festive llama.

Oh, and dressing up Vorenus.

swanky, this one is

Vorenus, in his festive sweater.

No complaints here.

After the Purrito returned from the airport, we went to Galleries Lafayette, which is probably the largest department store in Paris.

We went with a purpose: the Purrito wanted to show me the “ridiculously huge” shrimp that she and her friend had seen when they browsed through the seafood section of the market.

We bought two of them.

I ate 1.9 of them (the Purrito does not like shrimp).

They were glorious.

daaaaamn

Yes, that is a regular-sized cutting board…

The Purrito is currently en route to the airport.

She’s not the one that will be boarding a plane, however; a friend of hers that stayed with us for a week is headed back home. Said friend looked tired as she headed out the door; having watched (and occasionally accompanied) as she and the Purrito ran around and took in the major sights the past few days, I can certainly see why, and that’s before you factor in the time change (which, for me, takes approximately two weeks to adjust to).

We’ll be tracking her flight for the remainder of the day, comforting the mourning cats (who lost their overnight source of warmth and pets), and figuring out how best to squander my two weeks of respite from work.

Categories: life