Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

kitty

May 1, 2014

seriously. the parisians must have a frighteningly efficient stray-animal-destruction program

From what I’ve seen, this is the only felis silvestrus catus currently extant in Paris. Godspeed, you magnificent bastard. Godspeed.

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it’s a statue

I went wandering around this weekend and found The Statue.
Being a half-assed student of random information, I knew that this district, La Défense, is so named due to an old statue there commemorating the defense of the city. As you’ll no doubt note, the half-assed part is indeed true, given that I’m not giving either a year or a conflict.
It turns out that the statue in question was actually placed in 1883 and is intended to commemorate the defense of Paris during the Franco-Prussian war. It’s obviously been moved since that time, or at least has been hoisted in the air; it’s currently situated atop a fairly tall round column that brings it just above grade level with the surrounding esplanade.
With the statue comes a better view of the more modern side of La Défense; the ugly 70’s era buildings that I saw on my taxi ride from CDG were limited to one or two old skyscrapers, with the rest of the skyline taken up by very modern glass-encased buildings that are much better representatives of the “hyper-modern” business district that La Défense is claimed to be.
Unfortunately, we haven’t worked out whatever the issue is with wordpress, so even a picture is an agonizing affair at the moment. Once I get things figured out (I think it’s a host-related setting) or I get home (I’m so tired of shitty internet connections) I’ll go through the pictures I’ve taken thus far and put a few of them up.

In the month or two before I left, we were consuming copious amounts of Frank’s Red Hot sauce (it’s hcg diet compatible).

While we were dating, I think that my wife was surprised to learn that when I said I was cooking chicken and vegetables for dinner, I was cooking chicken, cooking vegetables, and then putting them on a plate and eating them (no, we’re not skipping any steps here); having been placed in a small aparthotel (I hate the word, but the French seem to dig the portmanteau, and it is, sadly, a very accurate and efficient description) with a kitchen that’s smaller than our guest bathroom back in Houston (the fridge is basically a stainless steel version of the dorm fridges that seemed to merit so much envy when living on campus in college), I have reverted to my bacheloresque cooking habits (actual reason: I’m lazy). Which is to say, I cook some chicken, cut up and briefly boil some broccoli, dump it on a plate, and if I’m feeling particularly Master-Chef-worthy, I have a little cheese on the side too.

At three weeks in, I am still alive, so I’m inclined to declare the plan a success. There shouldn’t be any reason to mess with success, except for the fact that I would punch a baby (not too hard, but, yeah) to get my hands on some Frank’s.

The grocery store down the street has, to my spoiled American eyes, a selection commensurate with the Quick-E-Mart (actually a weird Circle-K knockoff) back home. This is, however, a neighborhood grocer, so it’s probably what I’m stuck with unless I want to go to the huge Auchan in the mall (I looked at the Auchan in the mall. I don’t want to go there). Like all good (or hell, even bad) grocers, this store has an “ethnic” aisle helpfully labeled “l’ethnique.” The contents of the aisle are, to say the least, entertaining, as it should really be called the “hello American dumbass with your crappy food” aisle; there are salad dressings (Wishbone, if anybody cares), various Kikkoman sauces, cans of tuna, and an entire section, floor to top shelf, of Old El Paso taco kits. And Skippy, thank god, crunchy Skippy (Lunch is a PBJ or PB honey. Deal with it.). As deeply amusing as I find the huge selection of Old El Paso, and as relieved as I am that they have Skippy (though at the equivalent of $7 per  12 oz jar), they do not have Frank’s. They have (and I bought) Tabasco sauce (in the French sauces aisle, which came as a bit of a surprise), but Tabasco is a poor substitute; it’s mainly heat, and what little flavor it adds is of the ass variety.

Such is life, I suppose, but I suppose I could try that frighteningly large Auchan…

Categories: food

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The appallingly shitty internet connection in this miserable little “aparthotel” was finally fast enough to spew a number of errors at me as I attempted to upload a few pictures from last weekend’s alternate wandering plan. The only one that will go through is the one shown, of a Color Run that was held in the area around the island on which the cathedral of Notre Dame sits. We were supposed to run the one coming to Houston over the summer, but that is obviously not going to happen now.

first-world problem: I can’t go to the bike shop that I’ve wanted to visit since I learned we’d be moving to Paris because the corporate security department sent an email stating that a large anti-austerity protest would be held today, and to keep my stupid American ass far away. Said bike shop is, naturally, in the neighborhood where the protest is supposed to originate.

Categories: life

Note to self: when a French bartender tells you that a beer is strong, he does indeed mean that said beer is strong. While I do favor Belgian Abbey Ales at home, whatever it was that I was served this evening after work packed one hell of an alcoholic punch.

On the other hand, ignoring warnings leads to interesting situations; there is something distinctly surreal about watching Hercules (yes, the Kevin Sorbo series from some 20 years back (holy shit does that make me feel old)) in French.

We blew through two seasons of Boardwalk Empire in the weeks before I left, so confessions, long a minor issue of interest to me (long story. short version: I’m not catholic, so it’s really probably just the novelty) seem like they’re in vogue. Or were in vogue. Or, probably most accurately, are in vogue, but only in my head. This, sadly, isn’t even one of those confessions (no fun sin involved), but here we are:

I felt like (and retained the self-image of, for quite a while) a yokel when I first moved to Houston after college. My second day on the job (and the fifth day after having moved to said city), I was sent, with another engineer, to a fabrication yard on the north side of the city. Driving back to the office with him at the end of the day, we were caught amongst the southbound traffic on Beltway 8, which was at a standstill due to the work that was being conducted on the interchange with I-10 (or the work on I-10; that part is a touch fuzzy). Sitting in the passenger seat, staring at the endless ribbon of cars, all moving at sub-five-miles-per-hour speeds, I evidently made a face that caught the attention of my compatriot. He turned to me, eyebrow raised, and I (stupidly) stammered out a reply in which I said that I had never seen so much traffic. His bemused chuckle was like a knife being jabbed into my ego, and for the next few months, I wandered around with a secret shame: I was a hick, a yokel from the sticks who happened to wander to a city eight times the size of the one that I had grown up in.

I felt much the same way this morning; I rode the Metro for the first time today. At morning rush hour. Not only was it a Metro ride, it was the RER A to Chatelet to the RER B to the vast nothingness that is the eastern suburbs of Paris. Fortunately, I was with a Frenchman who, as a one-time transplant to Paris himself, was more than willing to point out all the stupid mistakes I probably would have made had I simply attempted to jump on a train by myself. Perhaps even more fortunate, I managed to keep both a poker face and my mouth shut this time, so I didn’t admit to being a hick, at least to anyone outside of my head.

Still, the trains. The transit network. The sheer scale of the infrastructure. The number of people, my god, the number of people.

Yet again, I am a yokel.

Categories: life

I am reasonably certain (95%, k=2) that I have just finished consuming the worst-tasting Chipotle burrito I’ve ever laid my hands on.

I know, I know: “Going to another country and just eating American food is stupid. What did you expect?” Well, after screwing around in the Metro station for almost an hour without successfully figuring out which fucking tickets I actually need to buy to get across the city tomorrow morning (at rush hour), I decided that I would walk home through the mall, which was puzzlingly both open and well-attended (it appears to be open in the mornings on Sunday. The more you know). Having decided that there were really too many people in the mall at that particular point in time, I made for the nearest exit and found myself staring at the newly-opened (as in, they opened this very morning) Chipotle. Shrugging my shoulders and vaguely surprised at the complete lack of a crowd (apparently only Americans get excited about fast food openings – I was kind of expecting the scene that the Chron reported on when the new Chik-Fil-A opened in the Energy Corridor), I figured what the hell, and decided to tempt fate by ordering a burrito with effectively zero knowledge of French.

Fortunately, the woman making my burrito put two and two together (I was reading what I wanted off of the overhead menu as opposed to interacting with her) and switched to English. Victorious, I took my burrito and hiked up the steps of the Grande Arche to see what the hell was up at the top and kill a bit of additional time while I waited for the cleaning crew to get the hell out of my “apartment.”

Bored of the arch (and mindful of the pigeons, who seem not to know that getting stepped on would be fatal), I headed back home and tore into my prey. The tortilla had a weird consistency, the menu wasn’t bullshitting when they said that the rice was lemon and coriander, and he chicken had a faint hint of a spice that I have no idea how to identify. The medium salsa, surprisingly, tasted just like that from back home, and the cheese was almost right but just a little too overpowering; whatever they substituted for fake American mozzarella is good cheese, but too real for a burrito. Prices here continue to astound, too; €9.30 ($12.75 at today’s exchange rate) for just the burrito.

All that said, I’ll almost undoubtedly be back. I’m not going to stoop to Mickey D’s, Parisian or not, and I’d rather not get to know the owner of the pizza place on a first name basis, though I can get a small pizza (two days of dinners) for €11.

Categories: food

The good news: I now have a phone.

The bad news: it’s an iPhone. I would have preferred to stay on a Windows phone, but we’re going to be in an unfamiliar place for a year, and the lack of Paris metro, corporate travel, and native bank apps was worrisome enough for me to shell out for an iPhone on a prepaid (mobicarte) plan (yes, it was hideously expensive and involved standing in an orange store for half an hour waiting for the English-speaking rep to help me).

It’s a bit odd;having ditched the original iPhone in 2009 (yes, it was a 4gb first gen), the damn thing feels almost exactly like I remember (with all of my irritations and annoyances intact). I’m wondering if maybe we can work out a deal where she gets the idevice and I get my Windows phone back (depending on the dependency on the aforementioned apps, natch), but we’ll have to see. I should probably also check if Verizon will unlock our 928s when I return to collect everyone; that would undoubtedly be the cheapest, and since we’re not going to have French credit or a French bank account (immediately, at least, with respect to the bank account), we can swap SIMs and top them up as we need them anyway.

I won’t, however, go into the joys of topping a SIM up when you don’t speak the language…

 

 

Troubleshooting internet issues at home isn’t what I’d normally consider fun, but troubleshooting them in a completely different country, and more to the point, somewhere that you have no control over anything beyond your computer, is agonizingly frustrating. And time-intensive.

And entirely required, if it’s your only link back to home.