Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

Having backed out of a meetup at the very last minute, I heeded the Purrito’s departing suggestion and headed to the pharmacy down the street for Zyrtec and Dolirhume (paracematol and pseudoephedrine).

I was greeted by a sign posted in the window saying that they were experiencing a fermeture exceptionelle.

I turned away from the window when an old woman pointed her cane at me and asked, in heavily accented French, if the pharmacy was closed.

Oui, I said as I walked by her and sighed.

I found myself smiling, however, as I heard her cursing, in German, behind me.

Categories: life

Amsterdam.

We concluded our multi-week plan, entitled Disney, Donkeys, and Dutch this past weekend with our second trip to Amsterdam. Our first trip to Amsterdam was The Trip the Blog Forgot, and with as late in the game as this post is, one could wonder if we simply don’t have much to say about the place. (Alternate theory: we have something against blogging about our forays into Dutch-speaking territories; our December trip to Bruges never amounted to anything beyond a set of photos in Lightroom and two text files containing unfinished blog posts)

Here we are, though: Amsterdam.

For our  first trip to the ‘dam, we didn’t actually stay in Amsterdam; rather, we stayed in Zaandam, a northwestern suburb which was about 15 minutes by intercity train away from Amsterdam Centraal. This (admittedly slight) distance, combined with the fact that I was, at the time, rather desperately ill, meant that we didn’t spend much time in the city center. The hope, on this trip, was to rectify this by staying in a rentable boat (a boatel?) that the Purrito found via Waytostay.

Upon arrival in Amsterdam, after making our way to the quay where our boat was tied up, we found that, much like hotels, there’s some difference between pictures and what the actual room looks like. I won’t say that it was the worst boat that I’ve ever been on (that award goes to the Intrepid, may it be laid up and rotting in an abandoned quay somewhere), but I will say that we were fortunate that at least the WiFi worked, as that allowed us to find a hotel that I wasn’t vaguely worried would catch on fire, owing to the primitive gas stove that was rigged up for “cooking.”

Captain whatever-your-name-was, you were a nice dude, and I’m sorry that we ended up running into you the next day as we wandered the streets of Amsterdam, though you almost managed to hide your confusion at the fact that you didn’t know that we’d abandoned your boat. (His main houseboat was tied up, and this little expeditionary boat was tied to the houseboat).

Anyway: Amsterdam. Yeah…

French has officially infiltrated my stress nightmares. Despite the fact that college will be nine years in the past as of May, I still periodically have the oh-shit-missed-an-exam/failed-an-exam/haven’t-attended-this-class-at-all-and-it’s-the-last-day-of-the-semester dream.

Last night, however, brought an interesting variation: my high school German teacher was proctoring a French exam. I completed most of the exam, came to a section on possessive pronouns, and panicked. Despite knowing them (and thinking about them, correctly, if my memory of the dream is accurate), I turned in the exam and walked off, only to come running back to my German teacher when I realized that the table made up the bulk of the points on the exam. I woke up to the sound of my alarm going off as he informed me that he wouldn’t be giving my exam back to me…

Perhaps I should have accepted the glass of wine that the Purrito offered earlier in the evening.

Yesterday we headed down to Porte de Versailles to attend the Salon de l’Agriculture. The show, the focus of which is, surprise, agriculture, wound up being much like Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo without all of the sucky bits (like the rodeo and the carnival).

We

  • petted cows;
  • bought cookies;
  • looked at surprisingly artistic cow posters;
  • got stuck in a sea of people;
  • petted a soft donkey;
  • bought a massive chunk of bread;
  • joked about attending a French ag school;
  • watched a goose seriously threaten a random guy’s testicles;
  • wound up on the receiving end of a bantam rooster’s angry rant;
  • picked up brochures for what I can only describe as completely random shit (Pigeon Club of France, anyone?);
  • stepped in cow poop;
  • laughed at derpy sheep;
  • made a mental note to purchase Farm Simulator 2015 when it comes out;
  • and seriously considered absconding with a goat. (Not sure about those hooves on parquet floors that date to the 1940s).

Sheer number of people aside (Paris fire marshal: what the hell, man?), we had a good time, though we didn’t buy nearly as much fresh food (oh the veggies, eggs, honey, cheese, and wine) due to the aforementioned throngs of people. We’d undoubtedly do it again (as a matter of fact, the Purrito is back at the show right now, as the host of a meetup group [yes, I bowed out]).

I somewhat randomly decided that the old theme was ugly and switched the site over to a different theme; while I’m fairly pleased with the result thus far, we’ll be tweaking how things look (my sense of aesthetics trends towards “irregular”).

Change is good, right?

Over the past 24 hours (read: I meant to post yesterday morning) I’ve attempted, on multiple occasions, to organize my thoughts on the Disneyland Paris experience, but I have yet to come up with a cohesive narrative or even a firm conclusion on the trip. It was somewhat weird, somewhat fun, somewhat kitschy, somewhat sucky, somewhat expensive, somewhat enlightening, and thoroughly cold and wet. I suppose the short version is that the Purrito and I had a fun day together, and while we’re noncommittal about returning to this park in particular, we’d still be willing to look at going to the Florida park in the future.

I suppose, on reflection, that’s an indication of success.

Ratatouille was the primary target for the trip, so upon arrival at the park some 20 minutes before it officially opened (the practical consequence of which was that while the rides themselves weren’t running, the lines were forming), we made a beeline to the Ratatouille area in Walt Disney Studios and began our time in line. As noted previously, we chose to go during off-season, so while we wouldn’t stand in any sort of meaningful line for the rest of the day, Ratatouille most certainly felt like a karma bank of sorts, as our net waiting time wound up being just over an hour. The ride was entertaining (and, in the end, worth the wait), though the 3D-glasses-plus-moving-car thing gave both of us a hint of motion sickness, which wore off while we walked through the ride’s huge associated gift shop.

Aside from the line, this was the only thing worth photographing from Ratatouille (yes, this is directed at the British "mum" in front of us who was waving her iPad mini around while snapping pics of the 3D images projected during the ride).

Aside from the line, this was the only thing worth photographing from Ratatouille (yes, this is directed at the British “mum” in front of us who was waving her iPad mini around while snapping pics of the 3D images projected during the ride).

While looking at the map as we stood in line, I caught a glimpse of the name of a (now-17-year-old, not that I saw it in the theatre as a sophomore in high school or anything of that nature) movie and thought “no, that can’t be right.” I asked the Purrito if she minded a walk to the far side of the Studio park, where, much to my disbelief, there was indeed an attraction based on Armageddon.

Yes, this attraction is basically a 15-minute-long advertisement for that Armageddon. The one that came out in 1998.

Yes, this attraction is basically a 15-minute-long advertisement for that Armageddon. The one that came out in 1998.

Yes, that Armageddon. The one that came out in the summer of 1998. With no line, I asked the Purrito if she wanted to see what it was. Being met with a “This is all on you,” we stood in front of the doors until we had been joined by a sufficient number of people, and were rewarded with a 15-minute long advertisement for a 17-year-old movie, complete with a bored French 20-something half-assing the already-painful audience participation bit (the conceit, in the event that you’re odd enough to give a shit, is that you’re an actor about to go onto a “high-tech” special effects set).

As far as I’m concerned, having Michael Clarke Duncan dubbed by a clearly-white French guy is enough to recommend the attraction. Oh, and the kid that cried after the event was over (there’s steam, flames, water droplets, and a moving ceiling as things go “awry” on-set) was entertaining as well.

The Armageddon "armadillo."

The Armageddon “armadillo.”

After a jaunt through the massive park gift shop, we exited Walt Disney Studios park, never to return. This, I think, is the root of the weirdness surrounding this particular park; it’s almost like stepping into a time warp. While Ratatouille is new (it opened in July 2014), it had apparently been in the planning stage since 2008. While, per Wikipedia, Crush’s Coaster, Tower of Terror, and the Aerosmith ride came out in this millennium (2007, 2008, and 2003, respectively), having rides based on these properties feels stale, and this is coming from somebody who’s not a theme park aficionado.

Part of the sign for the Aerosmith coaster. CDs are the cool format now.

Part of the sign for the Aerosmith coaster. CDs are the cool format now.

Once in Disneyland proper, we meandered around; we walked through the castle, visited the animatronic dragon under said castle, walked through Alice’s very tired-looking labyrinth, rode Pirates of the Caribbean (entertaining and made even more so by the knowledge that they made three movies based on that damn thing), rode the park train (the conductor seemed to be having a good time), rode a very lame haunted house ride (woo.), ate a terrible lunch, rode It’s a Small World (I have no idea why we liked this one so much, but the two of us giggled the entire ride), rode the carousel, hit one more gift shop (three, actually), decided that we were thoroughly frozen (the weather for the day: mid 40s [Fahrenheit, obviously], 20mph winds, and rain), and went the hell back to the hotel room.

Does this really need a caption?

Does this really need a caption?

This thing resides under the castle. It's well worth staring at for a few minutes.

This thing resides under the castle. It’s well worth staring at for a few minutes.

Everything is shrimpies.

Everything is shrimpies… and in need of a paint job.

Happy goats.

Happy goats.

Penultimate observation: the food throughout the entire ordeal was terrible. The chicken sandwiches via room service were borderline-acceptable the first night, but the chicken sandwich in the park was terrible; the chicken was dry, strangely spiced, and accompanied by watered-down Fanta (side note: how does an amusement park in France  not have Orangina?) The buffet back at the hotel that night (a mistake in and of itself; this is the first buffet I can remember eating at post-living-in-the-dorm; I think I’ll continue to avoid them) was similarly awful. This is the company that made the movie with the lyrics “After all miss, this is France, and a dinner here is never second best….” (I have a younger sister; ask me about any of the lyrics from Beauty and the Beast, The Little Mermaid, or Aladdin. Or better yet, don’t.) and we’re in France.

Final observation: the controlled, sterile Disney experience is most certainly not the norm here. From the hotel’s (it’s an official, but off-the-park hotel) cracked bathroom tiles and cold showers to the fading, peeling paint in Alice’s maze, and from the mold on nearly every building to the rust on the park train (and the replacement windows on said train that aren’t even the right color), this place is in desperate need of some maintenance (even some of the rides need it; half of the final room of It’s a Small World was obviously malfunctioning). As for cast members (which, as a non-Disneyphile, I had thought were an integral part of the experience), we managed to spend over eight hours across the two parks while only seeing a Jasmine (who seemed to be heading to her lunch break); no Mickey, which I had been led to believe one can’t go through a Disney park without seeing.

This reads like an extended bitchfest, I realize, but we did have fun; we marveled at the peeling paint, commiserated about the terrible food, laughed at the happy goats in It’s a Small World, made “oo” noises during the terrible haunted house ride, bought random Disney paraphernalia from the gift shops, and made faces at the marauding British hordes.

That, in my estimation, is what it’s all about.

Ducks (and muck) from It's a Small World.

Ducks (and muck) from It’s a Small World.

I took the afternoon off yesterday, and after eating lunch (sudeois sandwiches from our favorite boulangerie, Nelly Julien) and taking delivery of our water shipment (Evian chez vous: preventing people from schlepping around cartons of water since whenever), we hopped what proved to be an asthmatic RER to the eastern terminus of the RER A, Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy, to begin our brief adventure in Disneyland Paris.

The Purrito (who is currently still asleep; no bagpiping pigeons here) and I have been half-seriously considering a trip to one of the Disney parks in the States for a while; the relatively close proximity of Disneyland Paris is such that we figured that hopping the train, staying at a hotel outside the park, and giving the place a whirl was a relatively low-cost (offseason prices, single day park tickets, no airfare to Florida or California from Texas) way to see if this whole Disney thing is really our bag.

I am happy to report that thus far we’ve seen both a massive green field (not a lot of those in Paris) and a National Lampoon-style (did I just make myself look old by mentioning that series of movies? It’s not as if I saw them in theatres…) entrance to hell.

A smile from a veil? Do you think you can tell?

….can you tell a green field from a cold steel rail?

Dante would be trembling.

Dante would be trembling.

Other than that, it’s been fine, though we’re seeing the first signs of the infamous funding issues that make Disneyland Paris the rolling, nearly-closed-who-knows-how-many-times clusterfuck that it’s known to be. Still, we’re going in with open minds (maintain straight face, maintain straight face) and will undoubtedly come out with both loot and fond memories of something (Ratatouille ride, please don’t suck).

In any case, I’m off to other parts of the internet, to see if I can find more information on Disneyland Paris’ current scheme to reduce their current 1.7 billion EUR debt load to a supposedly more manageable 998 million EUR…

I accidentally bought a gluten-free sandwich for lunch and have just finished attempting to consume it.

I like sandwiches. I like bread.

Said purchased sandwich was very likely the worst sandwich I have ever (attempted) to put in my mouth.

Lesson learned: Gluten free shit is vile.

Categories: food

Oh, how people adore Paris. The city of love, the city of light! What could be more romantic than meandering through the quaint little streets and hovering over cups of espresso at cafes along the Seine? Pretty much damn near nothing. That is the rub. Except, before planning your little love holiday, take into account that everyone else on the planet has come here for THIS weekend to do all of the above mentioned things. So, don’t plan on walking leisurely up to the Eiffel and jumping on an elevator to the top. You will have to stand in line with about seven-hundred other love birds for at least several hours, dodging peddlers waving bouquets of flowers and tiny metal towers. Then, when you finally reach the top ( probably with said mini metal tower in tow), you will trip over people on bended-knee asking their darlings to spend their life with them. Side Thought: Maybe they should make a section for that special reason during Valentine’s, like a velvet rope thing? I don’t know, just an idea. Same goes for the cafes. If it is anywhere near the river, the Louvre, or any other main Paris attraction, it will be packed. Not just normal French packed (they seem to believe eating with your shoulders touching your neighbors is good for digestion here), but people-pouring-out-of every-orifice-of-the-building kind of packed. So with this influx of people, what did we do for V-day, you ask? We did something thoroughly romantic, or tried to, and then gave up and took advantage of the lack of crowds elsewhere.

I have been dying to go to the Paris catacombs since we arrived here. That pun was not entirely intended, by the way. How is this romantic? Pfft, it just is. Anyone who knows me ( I, being the Purrito) knows that I love human anatomy. After all, I enjoyed the hell that was A&P I and II during college, even when that meant spending twelve or more hours at the library. Bones are awesome, period. So, this is my kind of romance. Plus, who would go to the catacombs on V-day when you are in Paris only for the weekend? Well, apparently everyone on God’s green earth, that’s who. The line wrapped around several blocks. It was almost comical trying to find the end of it and calculating the wait time. Needless to say, given the rain and the line, we did not enter the world of the dead. Instead, we went to Shakespeare & Co. bookstore in the 5th to acquire some nifty books with stamps. They stamp them with their logo when you buy from them, which in turn makes the book a minimum of ten times more awesome than it is without a stamp. The stamp also trumps the fact that we have to eventually get these books home. The conversation usually goes:

“Another book to pack and ship home?”

“BUT IT WILL HAVE A STAMP!”

“Oh lord, that means I MUST HAVE IT!”

We love books anyways, it’s a personal fault we both share. There was only a small hoard of people in the store, which was a nice change from the last attempt we made to go. On several occasions, there was literally a line with ropes outside to get in. This time, Geep only threatened to kill one person under his breath for ramming into him without apology. That, my friend, is progress! We ended up with a booklet with articles written about Paris by Ernest Hemingway for the Toronto Star, a book about Paris during the times of Napoleon and Josephine, and a book about the Paris commune. And yes, all were stamped to our satisfaction.

Post Shakespeare and book purchasing, we headed over to BHV-Marais to buy cat food for the angry, fuzzy, hoard at home. Since everyone was Oh-la-la-la-la-ing at Notre-Dame and Champs-Elysee, it was wonderfully quiet for a Saturday. We capitalized on this moment to look through their papeterie section for nice pens. We may have gotten a little side-tracked and purchased two more books instead of a nice pen. Of course, they were less awesome since they were stampless, but they were really good books!  We then realised it was the last few days of SOLDES and very briefly considered going to L’ HOMME building to look for Geep stuff, but were no longer that interested in shopping. We picked up the fuzz’s food, spoiled bastards, and headed back to our side of the city. After all, a suedois sandwich from Nelly’s and some pastries sounded good at that point. It was almost perfect, except they didn’t have anymore poulet, only fromage. The cheese was a little much, but at least the tartes were tasty.

Okay,so before you get judgemental on our Valentine’s day activities, we did do some romantic stuff regardless of the above random errand running. There were cards with goats on them, chocolate hearts with ‘Je T’aime’ scratched into them, and a lovely dinner of homemade Teriyaki Duck prepared. There were also cuddles, lots and lots of cuddles. We were happy to spend the day together, even if it was not exactly as planned. Plus, any day that ends in the consumption of champagne is a good day. We love our little Paris, don’t get me wrong, but in the wise words of my mother ” I love you, but I just don’t like you right now.”  I want the tourists to leave a little while longer until they take over the city in May, is that too much to ask? No, no it is not.

Categories: life

Back to the good old états-unis a few weeks ago, and it was one heck of a strange experience. As soon as I landed sans Geep and got behind the wheel of a ford focus hatch, I felt all of Europe get sucked out of me. Was I in a coma for the last six months? Did I have this weird fantasy of living in France, but have been here the entire time? What is happening? It was too easy to get back into waiting around on traffic-jammed highways, passing blahzay strip centers, and deciding between terrible and less terrible food options. Okay, that is harsh, but I was rocked by sickness while back home due to the food. No, I did not eat any fast food! The salt content was impressive and tongue-swelling. I used to eat at these places and enjoy the food, so when did it become so sweet/salty/greasy? I’ll tell you when… It’s when I discovered that eating out was not synonymous with eating badly. France is full of sweets, bread, and fats, but they do something Americans typically do not. When they have something like a slice of pizza, they eat a salad with it. Having a heavy beef dish? They eat it with steamed veggies. Never (or almost never) do you see something high fat next to something high fat. They even serve hamburgers with french fries and SALAD. I apparently have become accustomed to this habit without realizing it. When I was out with friends back in the states, I was shocked at the portion sizes and the heavy meals. Even when I tried places I thought would be safe, like Sweet Tomatoes, the soup there made me take one or two spoonfuls and push it away. Moving back to the states will be a bigger challenge than I thought, at least on the food front. I guess we will have to start that garden we were planning before we left ASAP once we return. I will sob over the lack of fresh, tasty, veggies.

Categories: food