Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

In non-Marco-related news, we headed to the salon de l’agriculture this past Sunday.

I’m not sure what made this year unique (perhaps the complete absence of fowl, owing to the H5N8 avian flu strain that’s resulting in mass culling in various regions), but it felt less like fun and more like a slog.

I did not: give much of a shit.

I did: take a few pictures in spite of the above.

 

Due to my partner in crime’s absence, I am unable to attest to the entertainment to be had at any of the many balls; playing dress-up isn’t any fun alone.

This isn’t to say that one couldn’t tell that we were in the midst of carnevale; in addition to the surprising number of adults in surprisingly high-quality costumes wandering about the city, I saw kids in ninja turtle costumes, college-aged people in Dark Knight regalia (including Batman, Bane, Catwoman, and other hangers-on), huge numbers of people wandering around in 20€ half-masks, and a smattering of the usual steampunk douchenozzles that seem to infest any event in which a costume is involved.

Most of the pictures come from the <em>Feste della Marie</em>, which is apparently a throwback to when the Doge would select 12 pretty commoners and underwrite massive dowries.

This is the story of a joke that went too far.

And scope creep.

But the root cause analysis would probably point towards that joke gone awry.

In the beginning there was a lion. Orange, with a sparkly nose, and stout-though-satiny wings, we acquired Marco when we visited Venice in November.

Subsequent to the lion, there was the rattiness. Owing to his packability, we did what sane adults otherwise do not do, and started carrying Marco around so we could take pictures of him in front of various landmarks. One could say that it’s cliché, but one would be welcome to go fuck oneself, since we enjoy it. Carrying Marco around (even in the nylon pull-string bag we designated as Marco-only) has led to discussions regarding the texture of his fur, as well as color. The Purrito maintains that Marco is not aging at all. I am of the opinion that Marco, henceforth known as Marco Basileus (yes, this is probably reversed. I care. Honest.), is ratty.

Then came the joke. The original idea – fly in to Marco Polo and then fly right back out after stopping at the World of Venice shop (which we believed to offer Marcos, though this was at the time unconfirmed) – was high-risk enough to be both funny and unlikely; it would have had to take place over a weekend, and weekends are off-limits for activities due to their status as our designated “together time.”

A major piece of the still-nascent plan solidified when the Purrito set the dates for her biannual trip back to Houston in mid-February; this meant that one of our weekends together would not be sacrificed. Critically, it also cemented the fact that I would be the one making the lunatic run for additional lions (and, in truth, I went to Venice to buy more lions is one hell of a lot funnier than I sent my wife to Venice to buy more lions). We now had the person (your humble disciple of Baudolino) and the date (18 and 19 February).

My trip planning was half-assed (though the later daydreaming was, oddly enough, quite a bit of fun). I have no doubt that the Purrito would testify to the sometimes-obnoxious degree of overplanning I am wont to subject things to, but there is something about the logistics of travel planning that is different, something that I loathe, something that makes attempting to if not control then anticipate all of the moving pieces absolutely miserable. I knew that if I was going to go, I was going to have to say fuck it, hit whatever confirmation button was on the screen, and then hope for the best. Having looked briefly on Expedia, I saw that most everything was unexpectedly expensive, though I ignored a nagging question in the back of my mind and decided against checking a calendar. I also noticed that staying two nights was effectively neutral from a cost standpoint; further, it made more sense to have the second night to pack my theoretical pride of Marcos and, perhaps more importantly, it would afford me the ability to wander around Venice once more without having to worry about closely timing travel intervals or worrying about when I would have to leave for the airport.

Deterred by the prices, I was about to walk away from the entire scheme when I rememebred that I was sitting on a mountain of AmEx rewards points. Never having used the site, I searched for a hotel somewhere in the vicinity of Saint-Mark’s, looked at the point cost, said fuck it, at that amount it can’t be any worse than the last Venetian hotel in which we stayed (which, in truth, was somewhat hilariously awful but ultimately bearable due to its location), and dared myself to hit the confirm button.

It was not until a couple of days before leaving that I went back and looked up both the name of the hotel and it’s actual location (as it turns out, I had confused the one that I booked with one that I was looking at on Expedia). A few days prior, I had discovered the reason for the relatively unpleasant remaining flight times, why the hotels seemed to be largely booked, and why this trip was not going to be a repeat of the quiet stay we had in November.

This is how I wound up in Venice’s Hotel Danieli (they even upgraded me to a double room in the nicer part; odd, since I’d booked a lowly single room) during carnival, with a primary mission of purchasing plush lions. All sans the Purrito.


In the epoch before the joke became reality, we were (undoubtedly inebriatedly) speculating as to how many Marcos would be required for the trip to be worthwhile. Clearly, bringing back a single spare Marco was ludicrous given the effort involved, which led me to laughingly declare that no fewer than four Marcos would be acceptable.

It is probably fitting then, that I came back with seven.

The original plan of buy Marcos from Fondaco dei Tedeschi and then move on with wandering became buy a Marco wherever I see one after I spotted one in the window of a still-closed shop on while on my way to Frari church (he would become Marco 5). From that point, it became a game of going to stores which were listed as stocking Marco, as I was wandering in and out of parts of Venice that we hadn’t seen, and in which I probably would have not otherwise ventured. I actually intended to stop acquiring the lions after Marco number 5, but the shopkeeper of another Marco-containing store offered me a discount when he saw me pick up one of the Marcos he had on display as he was wrapping a present that I purchased for the Purrito. I bought Marco 7 from the airport because when one has already bought six plush lions, there is zero marginal decline in perceived sanity should one decide to purchase a  seventh (thus spake the Purrito when I told her of the prior day’s haul).


What am I going to do with seven Marcos?

I don’t know. I could give a couple of them to people, but…

  • Marco 5 (purchased at Magoga) is mine, as he accompanied me (and the companion to the Purrito’s puppet) to the Venetian arsenal, the ship pavilion, and the lovely interlude spent sitting in front of the gondola dock waiting for the Festa della Marie to pass by;
  • Marco 6 is the Purrito’s, as he was the one that I bought after the merchant offered the discount on account of the gift;
  • Marco 7 is the spare for Marco prime (he was rescued from an airport. The lion deserves our sympathy);
  • Marcos 1-4, the original batch from Fondacco, are now a familial unit in my mind, so breaking these siblings up would be cruel.

Writing all of this down makes the adventure seem markedly less sane

Two exhibits have been on The List since late last year; Fêtes et divertissements à la Cour, at the château de Versailles, and Amazones de la révolution at musée Lambinet in municipal Versailles. For various reasons relating to the weather, health, the vagaries of reality, or the universe simply hating us, we have yet to manage to accomplish this visit to Versailles, and as the clock on the exhibits ticked down, we reached a point at which, last weekend, we said that come hell or high water, we would go to Versailles.

  • It was with this in mind that we ate a filling-but-stomach-friendly dinner on Friday;
  • It was with this in mind that we each woke up earlier than is typical on a Saturday;
  • It was with this in mind that we looked outside, said “holy shit” at the temperature (which had plunged back down to 4°), grabbed  extra layers, and said “we are going to Versailles today;”
  • It was with this in mind that we grabbed Marco, packed the camera and an extra bag (we invariably end up toting posters, soap, or who-knows-what around), and walked out the door;
  • It was with this in mind that we walked down the stairs to the RER C, looked at the screen with puzzled expressions, and then walked back to the nearby map of the system to see if our inference as to what was going on was correct;
  • It was with this in mind that, exasperated, we verified via the RATP app that the entire southern leg of the RER C was shut down for the weekend, threw our hands up, and walked away.

It is true that we could have taken the métro and then a bus, but two hours of travel time per direction was unreasonable. We could have taken an Uber out to Versailles, but we have had awful luck with regards to getting either Ubers or taxis to come back from Versailles, thus we reasoned that we were only setting ourselves up for later misery.

As we walked away, defeated, the Purrito jokingly suggested that we could return to that very worst of Museums, musée du quai branly. Unhappy, but not to the point of self-hatred, I declined. Originally planning to hike to a nearby métro and console ourselves with Chipotle at Beaugrenelle, we wound up saying “why the hell not” to an Italian traiteur that the Purrito had heard about, and then sulked back to the neighborhood, our purpose, having been thwarted, no longer shielding us from the cold.

The universe won this round.

It is probable that, if asked, the Purrito would state that I have the palate of a child. Were I in said room, I would protest that I don’t have the palate of a child, and would proceed to flail in the argument until, in desperation, that I don’t know any kids that like wine, foie gras, or (to reach back before our time in France) kimchi.

So perhaps I have the palate of un enfant terrible.

I’ve found myself dismayed the past few days as the Franprix down the street, with which we’re initimately acquainted owing to rate at which three ungrateful furballs use litter, no longer carries Lucky Charms cereal bars. Said cereal bars, effectively mass-produced rice crispies bars (complete with the attendant bizarre material properties) slapped on a hard white frosting bottom that is supposed to remind the consumer of milk, appeared out of nowhere on the shelves of Franprix sometime in late November. It is alleged by the Purrito that this coincided perfectly with a sweet-consumption cycle, an allegedly cyclical pattern in which I decide I like a sweet, she purchases said sweets, and everything is allegedly fine until she randomly buys box n of said sweet, at which point I allegedly declare that I don’t like said sweet anymore, and that there are no more geep treats in the flat. Allegedly. An alternate interpretation could be that said Lucky Charms bars are compact, contain (way more than) enough sugar to fend off the low-blood-sugar headaches, and thus simply became my jam. I admit that I had, stupidly, retained a bit of optimism that there was just a supply hiccup when the Purrito told me that there were no more Lucky Charms bars to be had. I had a reserve sufficient for Malta, and they’d probably sell through the yawn-inducing abominations known as Reese’s peanut butter cups (king size), and then the Lucky charms would return.

Alas, despite repeated trips to Franprix (I find myself numbed at the mining activities that are taking place somewhere on behalf of our cats) which confirmed that the stock of Reese’s was dwindling, the empty box was replaced by more fucking peanut butter cups.

I suppose that I have seen boxes of Poptarts…

I like Malta quite a bit, but I couldn’t tell you why. It suffers from most of the problems that seem to come along with being an ex-British isle (traffic flows on the wrong side, roads are poorly laid out, large portions of the island bear a strong resemblance to a garbage dump, an obvious lack of enforced building codes, and so forth), but I still like the place. Given their more laissez-faire attitude towards incorporating, we even briefly contemplated adding the island to the list of places to live, but we hit a wall when we asked ourselves how we could sustain ourselves (sadly, I’m not sure goat and olive farming are particularly lucrative, and I’m not a software engineer, so working for one of the online casino-gaming companies isn’t in the cards).

Nonetheless, I like Malta. With Parisian temperatures in the low single digits, escaping to a near-balmy 16° was welcome, though much of that warm was sapped away by the winds that are apparently endemic to the island at this time of year. We somehow managed to avoid one of our stated goals of sleeping next to the pool (owing to a perhaps overly-ambitious desire to return to Valletta on day 2; day 1 was spent in the previously-skipped Mdina), but the two-and-a-half hours spent at the spa (we’ll omit the number of hours spent at the hotel bar) undoubtedly met or exceeded the relaxation quotient, if getting wrapped in a cacao mixture and cellophane (hi, I’m a melted snickers bar), getting a massage (which is like being stuck in a dark elevator (oh the music of spas) with a burly Ukrainian woman who inspects her surroundings by squeezing the life out of them; my left shoulder is still sore), and getting a facial (confession: I briefly considered eating the cucumber slices placed on my eyelids) is relaxing. Which, of course, it is. I’m holding out for a hot stone massage the next time, however.

I am also happy to report that the Electro Lobster Project was as good as I remember it being; I can thus in good conscience continue to annoy the Purrito by randomly answering “Electro lobster project” when she asks me what I want for dinner.

I had an uncomfortable moment a few days ago while looking through the “Please make a contribution” site that my university alumni association implores everyone to visit; flipping through the pictures of now-suspiciously-young-looking college kids working in this materials lab or playing with that flow device, all the while wondering how staged these were (fluid dynamics labs blew goats, not wind), I read a comment about an aging lab and said to myself “that’s not old, that’s new.” A creeping sense of discomfort built in my stomach, however, as I examined that statement again. That lab was new. When I was a freshman. Normalizing my timeline to that of the happy kids in the pictures, freshman me (hello, fall of 2000) would have been walking by a lab that was built in… 1984?

No, that could not possibly be right, could it? Shit. Mental math 1, emotional response 0.

I can recall thinking that 30 seemed, if not decrepit, firmly in the “old” range. So how the fuck could I possibly have turned 35?

No clue. On the other hand, we did learn something: sparklers look great on a birthday cake, but deposit a sulphur-flavored dust (so we wound up removing the uppermost layer of frosting).

Walking through the oppressive, heavy fog in La défense this morning (which, unsurprisingly, does not photograph particularly well), I found myself giving in to a creeping feeling of sadness; sadness that the very welcome period of rest was over, sadness that my stint of lazy days with the Purrito was now very much at an end, sadness that these steps covered the final distance on the path that returned things to “normal.” Vacations, as all things, must eventually come to an end. This knowledge did not, however, stop me from wondering whether the chilly tendrils of dense air hitting my lungs was the source of my discomfort, or simply a fitting accompaniment.

In need of rest, we made a conscious effort to spend this year’s winter break in a more relaxed manner than that of last year. While I did update The List and even went so far as to attempting to update The Schedule, we wound up discarding both and doing more or less whatever floated into our heads. This isn’t to say that we did nothing; we wandered into no fewer than four marchés de noël (La défense, Les invalides, the terrible one on the Champs-Élysées (completely unintentionally), and the one in Rouen), found new places to eat and drink (oh the joy of wine flights), wandered through a surprisingly-crowded Louvre (we tend to feel like we have the place to ourselves when we go in the evenings), saw an exhibit or two (the incredibly-disappointing Guerres secrets and the incredibly-depressing Sites éternels), watched an unusually high number of bad Christmas-themed movies (Jingle All the Way is indescribably awful), and managed to make it out to Rouen for our now-annual fête de réveillon.

Mistakes were made, and errors committed: we did not have a chance to see the small herd of sheep that were set loose on the grassy areas behind Place Vauban. Our early decision to delay ice skating meant that we did not skate at all, as the crowds in the week between Christmas and New Year were far worse than we had anticipated. We did not watch the highly-probable-to-be-depressing-as-fuck Joyeux Noël, which has been on my watchlist since March. We skipped out on our original plan to hit the Hemingway bar before heading to the Louvre. My phone decided to die.

Thus a post that started out as a snarky recap of the La défense Christmas market (in the event that anyone was wondering, there was no music whatsoever in the one shop this year) before ballooning to encompass the last couple of weeks draws to a close, leaving me sad and, to be perhaps overly honest, a touch lonely.

The Purrito just smiled at me, though; all, it would seem, is not lost.