Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

It has been a bit quiet on the blog as of late, thanks to learning to navigate the French health care system and a higher than normal amount of “have-to-do” activities. I have a morning to myself where I don’t have to run out the door, as least not quickly, so I am taking a moment to post about something we have enjoyed here : Food.

Now, you are probably thinking I am talking about the cute cafés, bars, and restaurants that line every street of Paris, but I’m not. Yes the few places we have enjoyed dinner at have been mostly good, a few were excellent, but we honestly enjoy the food cooked at home. We are lucky enough to live down the street from a pedestrian market. The tiny little street is speckled with cheese shops, wine vendors, fruit & veggie markets, chocolatiers, and bread makers. There is even a fabulous butcher and a fish monger. I walk this street almost everyday on the way to the metro and often stop and look to see whats fresh and new. I do not always go to the individual vendors, there are a few grocery stores here if you want to remain anonymous, but I do like to go on a regular basis. Here are some of my favorite places:

The Fruit and Veggie shops

Veggies

The fruits and vegetables taste so much better here, it is crazy. They are big on products grown in France and are always changing things with the seasons. It is not like an HEB, however, where you can get strawberries in the middle of winter, so we have had to adjust our menus. This was frustrating at times, but we really enjoy it now. You have not tasted heaven until you have had a french apricot in full season. DELICIOUS!

The Fish Monger

Fish Monger

Walking past here is always a treat. We often stop to see what kinds of fish are available. Everything is flown in super fresh and looks incredibly enticing. Note, we have not purchased anything from here just yet ( need a little more French skills first), but we look forward to trying it!

The Breadmaker

boulanger

This is one of the MANY boulangers on the street. They have been the nicest so far and that says something. They even put up with our french. However, this place is not our FAVORITE, it is the most convenient. There is a place down another street called Moulin that has the buttery-ist croissants you will ever have. The bread here is amazing, cheap, and delicious. I have no idea how we will cope when we get back to the US. No daily fresh bread???? In Geep’s words, we will die.

The Cheese Shop

fromage

This place is amazing. You can smell it from down the street on windy days, however. Someone once described this particular cheese shop as smelling like ” Da feet of Da Angels”. It’s appropriate. From a million different kinds of goat cheese to things I have never head of, it has everything. It is also were we get our eggs. They have eggs brought in daily from a farm just outside of Paris. Fresh eggs are about ten times better than the ones you get at the regular store.

Okay, so there is a lot more store, but I don’t like being “that girl” taking pictures with her phone in front of the vendors, so a little at a time.

But as a result of this little street, I get to cook with things that look like this..

veggies

And drink fabulous cheap wine like this..

GREAT wine

And Make meals that look like this…

Voila!

There will be tears when we return home. Tears over the broccoli, tomatoes, peppers, bread, and everything else. We need to start that garden we have been talking about when we get back!

Categories: food

In an attempt to fulfill a core curriculum requirement, among the classes I took my first semester of college was art history. Through some toxic combination of arrogance, distraction, anger, and laziness, I managed to completely blow the first exam, to the point at which numerically, I was not going to be able to pass the class. Fortunately, I was not the only one who massively misjudged what an art history exam was likely to cover, and the professor, magnanimous as he was, offered us a bargain of sorts; if we could prove to him, on the midterm paper, that we were willing to “work hard,” he’d be willing to perform some sort of voodoo in which the grade from that first exam was raised to a level near that of that of the paper, and we’d be saved.

This is how I came to write a three page (he capped the number of pages; don’t look at me like that) paper on Nike of Samothrace in the fall of 2000.

The Purrito has been talking about going to the Louvre since well before we arrived in Paris. Having seen the crowds in front of the Pyramides on numerous occasions, we’d put our first visit off, hoping that things would be more bearable once the zenith of the tourist season was behind us. With the Louvre open late on Wednesdays and Fridays, I headed home a touch early and met her at the Metro station. We consumed a snack, and entered the museum.

While my profession is a technical one, I’ve found, over the past few years, that I harbor “ridiculous” ideas regarding education; I’m a firm believer in a liberal arts education and believe that core curricula are indeed of value. While I’ve never used a sonnet I’ve read or a poem I’ve memorized in a calculation, I believe that acquiring knowledge of the arts, to literature, to non-pragmatic disciplines is a worthy pursuit (if for no other reason than to use said knowledge as a cudgel, per certain crossed parties). I recognize that artisan classes are features of great societies.

All that said, I don’t have an extensive repository of art-related knowledge, so when the Purrito mentioned that the Louvre was home to the Winged Victory, I said that I wanted to see her on our first visit. Standing on the staircase looking at a headless, armless statue, I found myself surprised at the feeling that washed over me. I don’t know if it was a manifestation of a sort of culturally-ingrained expectation of a feeling of profundity when viewing major works of art, but it did indeed feel profound. She was beautiful. I felt like I got something out of standing there, gawping at a piece of two-thousand-year-old marble, something that I had not been able to get out of looking at pictures of her. I could not for the life of me recall much of the paper I’d written so long ago, but it didn’t matter; I was there, looking, and for a brief moment just standing there had meaning.

Incidentally, I ended up with a low A or high B in that art history class.

The final days of August marks the end of peak tourist season and a relative return to normalcy, or so we have been told. Indeed, as the month has waned in this final week, we’ve noticed a marked decrease in the amount of ambient English and a return of the business and professional crowds, both to the Metro in particular and to the La Défense area in general. That said, with approximately 15 million foreign tourists to the city per year, it’s not particularly reasonable for one to expect anything to be empty. Thus our surprise(s) this weekend.

I have an admittedly unexpected affinity for boats. Yachts and pleasure craft rank as a meh, tugboats in the 200t+ bollard pull range start to get interesting, cruise ships are abominations, oil tankers typically merit a “neat,” and the Maersk Triple-E class alaways merits an audible “wow.” Old boats are great as well; standing there and wondering how, exactly one constructs them, what the naval architect’s  education was like, and exactly how terrible it would be to have been stuck on one of the damn things is an endless font of amusement as well. The explanation for the “unexpected” part of that like: a) I’m not a naval architect, b) I grew up in a desert and c) unless I have a steady supply of scopolamine patches, my time on boats is largely spent looking down the side of the hull, wondering why I’m even on this godforsaken boat in the first place in between bouts of vomiting.

Boats: great. Being on boats: not so great.

Enter the concept of the maritime museum, which we first discovered in Amsterdam (otherwise known as the place that the blog forgot): old boats, new boats, and lots of not-so-random crap related to boats. Awesome.

As we made our way across the Champ de Mars, we encountered a sparsely-attended Japanese cultural festival, the theme of which appeared to be related to (continuing, I suppose) relief efforts for Fukushima. Proceeding to under the actual tower, we noted that the swarm of people that had, to this point, characterized the location was significantly reduced, and even Trocadero, which had been overrun the prior couple3 of times we wandered by, was now at least passable.

Several flights of stairs and a couple of oddly placed signs later, and we were at the entrance to the museum. We halted as we approached as we weren’t sure if the museum was even open; the lights in the entrance and the hallway were off. Proceeding further, we looked confusedly at the bag-check rent-a-cop, who waved us over and pointed us at the largely empty foyer. There, we went immediately up to the counter, bought out tickets, grabbed our free audioguides, and proceeded into the actual museum, where we would see all of approximately a dozen other people in the almost three hours we would spend in the museum. This was a highly atypical experience, and the museum itself was awesome as well.t my

Unfortunately, the photos that I took don’t seem to be showing up in my cloud storage; I’ll have to post them later.

Nobody brings their lunch, so I don’t bring a lunch. Similarly, nobody eats at their desk, so I don’t eat at my desk, in defiance of the deeply-ingrained (and admittedly bad) habit that I’ve gotten into over the past several years (because I can already imagine the Purrito reading this post, we’ll qualify that with a “when I eat lunch.” Ahem. Anyway…) If I’m to maintain my facade as a duck that’s not weird (not overly weird, if we’re being less generous), I thus need somewhere to go and, most of the time, somewhere to eat.

Somewhere to eat is fulfilled by a number of options, most of which I completely ignore. There is the food court at Le Quatre Temps which wouldn’t be so bad if it wasn’t a food court or in a shopping mall. A local grocery store caters to the business lunch crowd (and that of the local University, when it’s in session) and has a decent selection of sandwiches and chips, and, most importantly, Orangina. I more or less quit going to said grocery store once the M&S (Marks and Spencer, a British grocery chain) opened up in the La Defense metro station; I like the watercress and egg sandwich, their house-brand chips, and their seemingly random selection of bottled drinks (the “sparkling scottish” water is nasty, as is their generic attempt at Orangina/Fanta). Plus, it’s (relatively speaking) cheap, so I can continue to refrain from taking a lunch with minimal guilt. Red letter days merit a trip to a sandwich cart in CNIT that sells the best tasting chicken sandwiches in Paris.

Having secured the first pillar of our wobbly construct, we now need a place to eat; that role is filled by the Grand Arche. It’s big, it has lots of built-in seating (look at all of those steps), and it’s close.

After a trip to the English-speaking bookstore this weekend, I realized that I had a growing pile of tomes (yes, there are two Kindles, one Kindle Fire, and iPad, and a Surface pro amongst the detritus that we brought with us. While I’d like for my primary justification for buying [large] books to be their lack of availability on an ereader, the reality is that there’s something more viscerally pleasing about buying a book. And hugging a book. And smelling a book…) concerning the history of Paris, the development of the Paris Metro, narratives of the French Revolution, and an analysis of the Terror. An obvious solution was thus born: if I read while sitting on the steps of the Arche (instead of browsing the internet or attempting to make sense of the pigeons’ food-acquisition subroutine), not only would my pile of books would go down, my lunch could be legitimately productive (because we all know that we should give a shit about having a productive lunch).

I’m not sure how I’d rate this first day of the grand plan: I encountered a (short)busful of loud, twitchy tourists (continent of origin withheld), a schizophrenic homeless guy loudly lecturing the ether (presumably about whatever it was that was wrong with his right calf – gangrene?), and a random guy, in his early twenties, that handed me his camera and asked me, in terribly broken French (my French is awful. if I can discern that your French is awful, well…) to take a picture of him.

Yeah. Still reading the preface.

Categories: life

Granted, this post is LLLOOONNNGGGG overdue, but it has been a bit crazy lately. My birthday was on the 29th of July. Hey! At least I got around to posting about it!

So…

When I woke up, there were random sticky notes with sweet little scribbles all over the house. (A very Geep move. So cute!) My favorite? The one placed on the bathroom mirror: “Oh look, it’s a birthday Purrito!”

After washing my face, I made my way into the living room. There were ballooooooons! On the walls, on the shelves, on the cats. Okay, not really on the cats, but Red was being chased by one due to his static cling issue. There was also a French ‘Happy Birthday’ sign above the couch. It was a sweet little surprise.

We went to dinner that night at a place I had heard about called Cafe Constant on Rue Saint Dominique. It was apparently reasonably priced and very, very good. It did NOT disappoint. 

We were sat at a tiny little table, in a tiny little corner, of the tiny little restaurant. Geep’s chair was almost hanging out of the door behind him. The only thing that was not little in that restaurant was the attitude of the wealthy New Yorkers at the next table. They were LOUD. Obnoxious does not really cover their behavior. We have noticed that the French tend to talk at a lower volume than most Americans. We have tried to follow suit since being here and have done a pretty good job learning to follow their etiquette. This family was not willing to shed their Loud New-York-ness for the quiet little place they were in. Not only that, but they were making insane requests of the food and the poor waiter. They also seemed to have forgotten regular table manners. The one daughter was picking the skin off the cheese with her fingers and rubbing them on the edges of the plates. *sigh* Anyways…

Thanks to them, we had plenty of time to go over the menu and make up our minds. When the waiter came to the table, we gave him our order and an apologetic smile for our loud neighbors. He seemed to like us a bit more than them. He smiled and joked with us a bit, as well as tended to whatever we needed.

We had decided to have a bottle of white wine and to try some of their starters. Geep chose the Salade de cœurs d’artichaut et champignons de Paris, tout simplement en vinaigrette, an artichoke heart salad with mushrooms and a simple vinaigrette dressing. I decided to go for the Terrine de foie gras de canard maison, pain de mie toasté, toast and house made foie gras terrine.

I must tell you now, that the Geep is not a “foodie”. He eats to survive and to keep his sugar levels up. Period. Of course, he has a few favorites, but he could literally eat chicken and broccoli every day without anything on them. Just cooked. I know when I have done well cooking dinner, if he tells me “This is good”, without me asking what he thinks. Those words are a triumph! (And rare!) That said, I have never seen him roll his eyes back in his head at a forkful of food. The minute the delicately cooked mushroom with a bit of artichoke hit his lips, his eyes lit up and chewed as SLOWLY as he could.  I don’t think he has EVER enjoyed food, truly, up until this point. He even tried my foie gras and found he liked it just as much, if not more than his little salad.

After drooling over our small plates, we waited eagerly for the main course. Pavé de cabillaud cuit au court-bouillon, quelques légumes en aioli, Poached cod served with seasonal vegetables, garlic mayonnaise for Geep. Filet de daurade royale au pistou grillé à la plancha, beignets de légumes croustillants, Fillet of sea bream with pesto, grilled on the plancha, crispy vegetables fritters for me. The entrees were even better than the starters. The fish was cooked just enough and the seasoning was delicate. The vegetable fritters are the best thing I have ever had in my life, Geep agreed whole heartedly with my assessment. We sat there in this little charming café, feeding each other morsels of food and sipping our wine. This is a restaurant that makes it easy to understand the frenchie’s love of PDA. You tend to talk a little quieter, share your food and smile, laugh a bit, and dote on each other lovingly. Food can truly be the way to someone’s heart, even non-foodie Geeps.

The desserts were just as delicious. An apple tart prepared in house and vanilla ice cream filled profiteroles with fresh made hot chocolate sauce. Not too sweet. A perfect end to such a great meal.

After dinner, we floated back down the streets headed toward home. When you go out to eat in the US, you rarely leave feeling light and airy. You typically feel weighted down and full of resentment (did I really just eat ALL of that?). Here, a good meal leaves you feeling satisfied, not over stuffed. The portions are smaller, but the flavors are better. You don’t need massive amounts to be satiated.

Basking in our after-dinner glow, we wandered home as the sun was dropping over the Eiffel. Back to our little flat, on our little street, in our little Paris. I may be getting older (goodbye twenties in just a few years!), but if every year was celebrated like this, I would not wish a single one to never come. 

Thank you Geep, for always giving me the best birthdays and keeping them simple and sweet.

Categories: life

We partook of the Bastille day festivities by

  1. Attending the parade in the morning
  2. Actually doing our French homework (I had a meeting with our tutor the next day) and
  3. Watching the fireworks show, albeit from an odd angle

Watching the parade was a surprising success, as we elected to skip actually going up to the Champs-Élysées; instead, we camped out south of the bridge that leads to the Place de la Concorde. While this meant that we were only getting half of the parade (it splits after the review stand that is set up at Concorde), it meant that we could actually see, as we were right up against the barricade as opposed to behind a dozen people that had been camped out overnight (which is the preferred method of being able to see along Champs-Élysées). Our only real disappointments with respect to the parade were that we didn’t get French flags (seriously; could not find a street hawker with a damn tricolore) and we didn’t get to see the French Foreign Legion, because the legion doesn’t split up when it gets to Concorde, and thus goes down the other street.

I’m almost a week late with these, so I’ll shut up and get to the pictures.

Diplomacy protip: if you're the ambassador to, oh, Ethiopia, and your buddy France is having a shindig, you might want to refrain from being late, lest they not let you in. (Epilogue: they let him in, but he had to hike across the bridge as opposed to being driven)

Diplomacy protip: if you’re the ambassador to, oh, Ethiopia, and your buddy France is having a shindig, you might want to refrain from being late, lest they not let you in. (Epilogue: they let him in, but he had to hike across the bridge as opposed to being driven)

This flyover opened the parade.

This flyover opened the parade.

A motherplane with planelets.

A motherplane with planelets.

The first part of the actual parade comes over the bridge.

The first part of the actual parade comes over the bridge.

A better view of the vanguard.

A better view of the vanguard.

This year marks the centennial of the start of the first world war. As such, flags of the combatant countries (note the Russians in the foreground) made up the early part of the parade.

This year marks the centennial of the start of the first world war. As such, flags of the combatant countries (note the Russians in the foreground) made up the early part of the parade.

Lots of propeller blades on this beast.

Lots of propeller blades on this beast.

Greeks.

Greeks.

Algerians. The French far right apparently melted down over their inclusion.

Algerians. The French far right apparently melted down over their inclusion.

The first wave of French crests the bridge. This group is from one of the military academies.

The first wave of French crests the bridge. This group is from one of the military academies.

A closer view of the cadets.

A closer view of the cadets.

Students from another one of the military schools.

Students from another one of the military schools.

The first wave of active military types.

The first wave of active military types.

The capes that these guys had were impressive. Fortunately for them, the morning was actually chilly.

The capes that these guys had were impressive. Fortunately for them, the morning was actually chilly.

Bright blue hats.

Bright blue hats.

Dogs, some with medals.

Dogs, some with medals.

France is one of the largest arms dealers on the planet (number 5, to be exact).

France is one of the largest arms dealers on the planet (number 5, to be exact).

Love the Polish dress uniforms.

Love the Polish dress uniforms.

I probably don't even need to caption this one: cops.

I probably don’t even need to caption this one: cops.

The Paris fire brigade is actually part of the military. As such, they are authorized to shoot at fires, should they fail to respond to dousing with water.

The Paris fire brigade is actually part of the military. As such, they are authorized to shoot at fires, should they fail to respond to being doused with water.

...and now for the hardware (mostly light to medium, as I'd guess that the bridge wouldn't take well to being rolled over by the heavy equipment).

…and now for the hardware (mostly light to medium, as I’d guess that the bridge wouldn’t take well to being rolled over by the heavy equipment).

Funky.

Funky.

You know that a country has a long history with (in) Africa when truck-mounted SAMs are part of the standard retinue.

You know that a country has a long history with (in) Africa when truck-mounted SAMs are part of the standard retinue.

Anybody need a bridge?

Anybody need a bridge?

The fire brigade's mechanized equipment.

The fire brigade’s mechanized equipment.

Bringing up the rear of the parade, a unit in WWI-era attire.

Bringing up the rear of the parade, a unit in WWI-era attire.

A decent picture of the Tour Eiffel prior to the fireworks.

A decent picture of the Tour Eiffel prior to the fireworks.

It's all fun and games until someone needs an ambulance.

It’s all fun and games until someone needs an ambulance.

The best damn picture I took all day.

The best damn picture I took all day.

We called these "champagne fireworks."

We called these “champagne fireworks.”

The finale.

The finale.

 

I caved and bought the camera, a Nikon.

This provoked two internal, if multitiered, responses:

  1. Hey, I’ve got  a new camera
  • The shutter actuation sound is strange (side effect of never having owned a non-Pentax SLR; the shutter sound was consistent between the film and digital versions)
  1. Let’s not think about that
  • That fisheye lens sitting in storage was how much? (according to Newegg they retail for the same as when I bought it five years ago, so maybe I can get something for it when we get back to the States, at least)

 

Tragically, I have yet to encounter any further culcita rancidus in their native biomes, so my plans for a coffee table book regarding subsepecies thereof have been thwarted.


Paris Museums seem to be on a bit of a Robert Mapplethorpe kick, so we’ve been on a bit of a Robert Mapplethorpe kick; the nominal plan for yesterday was to go to the Rodin museum just down the street in hopes of catching the Rodin/Mapplethorpe exhibit.

As we strolled up to the museum, however, we encountered a line. Not just any line, mind you, a tourist season line; the queue, coupled with the fact that they appeared to be restricting the number of people in the museum (normally a good thing, but not a good omen if you’ve just arrived), was such that we said “fuck it” and decided simply to wander.

It’s here that I feel it necessary to digress and extol the virtues of being an expatriate as opposed to merely visiting; while the people standing in line were likely to be constrained such that they could either stand in line or never see the Rodin museum, our current situation is such that we can estimate the probability that the Rodin museum will be there in the coming year (high), assess the duration for which we wanted to stand in line (not long), and finally, check our itinerary for seeing the sights (itinerary?).

Here are some of the pictures I took.

Look at us, we're in the 7th!

A street sign.

A garden barge. Yes, a garden planted on top of a brage, which is then apparently towed around and moored in random places along the river.

A garden barge. Yes, a garden planted on top of a barge, which is then apparently towed around and moored in random places along the river.

A lovely boat.

A lovely boat.

The Grand Palais.

The Grand Palais.

It only took a dozen or so pictures to get one with the damn flag waving.

It only took a dozen or so pictures to get one with the damn flag waving.

Tree out of nowhere.

Tree out of nowhere.

Preparations for Monday.

Preparations for Monday (Bastille Day).

Slightly closer view. The President reviews the troops from this stand (located in the middle of Place de Concorde).

Slightly closer view. The president reviews the troops from this stand (located in the middle of Place de Concorde).

Along the Champs-Élysées. No clue as to how one goes about getting seats, but we're planning on getting those small French flags and waving them like de Gaulle himself is coming down the road.

Along the Champs-Élysées. No clue as to how one goes about getting seats, but we’re planning on getting those small French flags and waving them like de Gaulle himself is coming down the road.

Per the Purrito: "An interesting juxtaposition of the old and the new"

Per the Purrito: “An interesting juxtaposition of the old and the new”

I hate Laplace transforms.

I hate Laplace transforms.

Where Velibs go to die.

Where Velibs go to die.

Sometimes, in the middle-ish of the week, you just need to pop two bottles of wine and listen to music from the 90’s. You have to cuddle on the couch and be shocked at how old some of the songs are. You need to talk about how you, strangely, don’t miss Texas and actually feel like you kind of fit in in Paris. You need to talk about living here after going back and finishing Nursing School so you can have a job, too. You have to yell at the cats to stop running up and down the hallway. Most important: You listen to the music you got married to and flirt with each other a bit. 

I kinda love Paris. 

Categories: food

Over the past few weeks, we have settled more and more into la vie parisienne. We get food almost daily, fetch bread in the mornings, and often find a good wine or two in the evenings. Life here really isn’t all that bad. I really don’t miss my car at all and actually prefer riding the Metro or walking places. Even with all these new habits we have adopted, we are still very much, Geep and Purrito. Pretty strange. 

Exhibit A: 

Walking through a beautiful city like Paris, you would think there would be LOTS of things to take pictures of. There is Invalides, gardens, canons, statues, little cafes, etc. But what do we end up taking pictures of? See previous post. Stinky Mattresses. This has become a common occurrence at this point. We will be walking down the street and point them out. Talks of a stinky mattress photo album have come up. 

Exhibit B:

With all the great food in Paris ( MINUS THE REALLLLLLY BAD CHINESE PLACE WE DISCOVERED. In Geep’s words: It was a Chew-and-Spew), you would probably be inclined to try all the little places dotting the side streets around town. Not us. We eat at only a few places. I mostly cook every night of the week, but when we are tired of cleaning up the tiny kitchen, we go to Chipotle. Serious. All of Paris and I go up to his work to go chow down on some expensive Chipotle. One meal there is about the same amount as two-three days worth of food when I cook at home. *shrug* What can I say, we really like burritos. Plus, it is fun to try to order there in french since we know most of the words. 

Exhibit C: 

We have looked at cameras for Geep at least twelve times by now. His indecisiveness has not changed. I imagine there are at least five more visits to FNAC in my future before he finally buys one. He worries that we wont use, but I do my wife-ly duty and remind him of every time he has uttered the words ” wish I had that camera” as we meandered through the city. That’s my Geep.

Exhibit D:

When in awkward social situations, Geep usually turns the conversation over to me or avoids it completely. Here in Paris, it is no different. When we were at the Grand Palais for the “I, Augustus” exhibit, a tall french man starting talking to Geep when he was overcome with excitement about a particular piece. He rambled on in French and gestured for Geep to look more closely at the carving. In true Geep form, he decided to run away. The man was very confused, and a little hurt, when he turned to find his new ami had flown the coop. He shuffled off into the next room and avoided us for the rest of the exhibit. Poor man. He was just really excited about that ocean battle carving. 

Exhibit E:

We are animal lovers at heart, mega-chicken-sized pigeons included. When they get trapped in the Metro lines, we find it depressing. The other day, we took turns chasing two pigeons out of the entrance to the Metro. Flapping arms and Psst Psst Psst’ing at them. We have lots of practice herding dumb animals thanks to the cats. We were successful in our endeavor and two more pigeons are saved from starvation. The French walking around were interested. One man stopped and watched Geep chasing the pigeon out the door with an amused expression on his face before jetting off to catch his train. The pigeons looked affronted.

 

Yeah, we are the same. We just speak a little more french. 

Categories: food