Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

Wednesday morning was a shitshow.

It was all the more surreal when, arriving at a doctor’s appointment, I stood there with the receptionists, slack-jawed, as a snippet of the victory speech came on. Perhaps sensing that the hospital was grinding to a halt, whomever runs the TV system cut back to one of the fluffy “Come to Paris because even when you factor in travel and a month’s worth of recovery time in one of the most expensive cities in the world, it’s still cheaper than getting that surgery in the US” ads.

Our passports feel vaguely like brands now: jagged, ugly.

I feel compelled to admit that I’ve considered changing the tag line for this blog; Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named ‘de Gaulle’ seemed impish enough and passed the two week test (if a name still sounds good after two weeks, go with it), but now… People is too generic. Lost souls is a nice Pink Floyd reference, but is far too emo for two people in their thirties. Dumbasses is funny for approximately 10 seconds. Anything occupation-based is out, because the Purrito and I do not share an occupation.

Expats or expatriates could work. I’ll consider it.

Still, this isn’t a political blog any more than it is a food blog, so I will just go feel lost somewhere else.

To twist a phrase from a recent Deus Ex: it’s not the end of the world, but damned if it doesn’t feel like you can see it from here.

How popular can a video game show in Paris possibly be? It won’t be nearly as bad as the salon de l’agriculture.

When I’m wrong, I’m very wrong.

On the other hand, the lines on Sunday were perfect incentive to head back home, do a bit of grocery shopping, and then play a bit of Gears 4

That line goes back to the left and is more rows that I cared to count deep. The other gates had similar crowds,

That line goes back to the left and is more rows that I cared to count deep. The other gates had similar crowds…

 

Saturday’s visit to le musée de Cluny was not unprecedented; indeed, Lightroom informs me that we first visited the museum in August of 2014. In the middle of a five-year modernization, it seems almost funny to me that the museum feels better, more focused; while my original impressions were that it was less the national musée du moyen âge and more the national museum of boring medieval religious shit, the trimming of the collection has resulted in a tighter, more interesting experience, one more centered on the museum’s very raison d’être, la dame à la licorne, a series of tapestries that a) are very pretty b) seem to be highly infused with some sort of symbolism and c) make no fucking sense.

While I enjoyed my second encounter with the licorne. what sticks in my mind is the disappointment that I was unaccompanied by the Purrito; it’s been quite a while since I’ve felt quite so generally good, so I was surprised at myself when I simply hopped off the bus on the way back from the museum and decided to wander aimlessly in the general direction of home (though, in truth, I was trying to get off at a stop that would get me within reasonable distance of le bon marché – sometimes you just have to roll with the punches).

The Purrito arched an eyebrow at me, not bothering to hide her mixture of doubt and incredulity as, a couple of weeks ago I informed her of my plans to attempt to cook over the long weekend while she returned to Texas. Her reaction would have tweaked my pride, had I not had my own doubts as to whether I was even going to bother, or if I didn’t have the history that I do with regards to simply going back to chicken and vegetables when she heads back to the US for a while.

“I like how you get ambitious when I leave. Why don’t you cook when I’m here? Why don’t you cook for me? I would love that,” she added.

“You are a good cook. I am not. I’d feel bad if the food sucked.” This was not entirely true; she is an infinitely more competent cook than I am, but I hate cooking. I don’t enjoy eating out any more than I do eating at home (I actually enjoy it less, most of the time), but this is orthogonal to the point. If I screw up while she’s gone, I can throw a pizza in the oven or Deliveroo something edible; nobody will even consider politely eating whatever abomination wound up on the plate in an attempt not to discourage the unsuccessful party from trying again.

While I have my doubts as to how correct this answer was, she let me off the hook; when she left, the recipe book that I was requested lay on the table, complete with an “I love you and I’ll miss you” on the final page. While I do think the (unattemptedm on my part) baked fish recipe was perhaps a bit perfunctory (“Bart’s Fish Tales has a great youtube video”), I rode to glory on the wings of her duck recipe and sunk into the muck with the aid of the instructions regarding the moules (to be fair, that wasn’t her fault. I don’t think it was my fault either, considering that I actually bought the correct herb (parsley, as opposed to cilantro) this time).

Because nothing is true and everything is permitted she wanted an accounting of my (mis)fortunes via WhatsApp, I took pictures along the way.

Epilogue: chicken and green beans is back on the menu.

There exists an alternate universe (a large number of them, if we’re fully invoking many-worlds, though at the moment it’s far too early in the morning to dance with the sanity-threatening bear that is the concept of the infinite) in which this particular post was written a few days from now. It involves an abbey located on a large outcrop of rock, a few sheep (if alternate-me is lucky), bitterly cold wind, rain (because no story that takes place in Normandy is complete without rain), eight total hours of travel, and a large amount of whining about probably-terrible food.

That was not our path, however; we’ll make another attempt at that particular series of events later.

Our consolation prize (since there’s no point in wasting a Friday that I’ve already taken off) was a visit to musée d’Orsay, specifically the Spectaculaire second empire exhibit, which, as the title implies, was a revisiting of the roaring second-empire days (prior to everything coming to a crashing halt with the defeat by the Prussians and the abdication of Napoléon III in 1870).

We finally found ourselves with the time to sit and eat at one of the several cafés within the museum as well; we have checked “eat at café campanella” off of the list (full disclosure: it wasn’t ever officially on The List, though the food was good) and have discovered a new variation to one of our favorite activities: wandering around the museum after a couple of glasses of wine.

My god, it’s full of (impressionist squiggles which I am informed are intended to represent) stars.

From our jaunt to the auto show yesterday:

While not as arresting as Versailles (but then again, what is?), it is immediately apparent why Fouquet wound up in prison along with the man in the iron mask while his architect (Le Vau), gardener (Le Nôtre), and painter (Le Brun) were immediately approipriated by Louis XIV and put to work on designing Versailles (that, and the fact that the minister of finance built this splendid little palace; this is 17th century Wolf of Wallstreet territory): both the château itself and the grounds on which it sits are stunning.

Combined with a repeat of the weather at Versailles (complete with rain), champagne, good food, and the ever-important fun gift shop, we had another excellent day.

 

This weekend’s visit to Melun was entirely my fault.

We had been discussing going to Vaux-le-Vicomte for a while, thus leading to the inevitable scope creep; see Vaux-le-Vicomte became spend the day at Vaux-le-Vicomte, which morphed into see one of the soirées aux chandelles at Vaux-le-Vicomte , which became stay near Vaux-le-Vicomte so we wouldn’t have to go all the way back to Paris, which briefly turned into stay at one of the many smaller private châteaux near Vaux-le-Vicomte, which actually reduced in scope to go to Melun the night before, wander around Melun for part of the day, take the navette from the station to the château, wander the gardens, see la soirée aux chandelles, drink wine, eat macarrons, and then take the navette back to Melun and walk back to the hotel.

Required background information: the château, some 50km outside of Paris, is not easily reachable sans automobile. Thus our my plan was great, except for the part where I failed to notice that the navette did not run between the château and Melun, but rather between the château and Verneuil l’Étang, some 20km away, and entirely unconnected by trains (unless one wants to hop back up to Paris and come back down).

I discovered my error just as we were about to leave the house on Friday evening; we made the decision to wing it and hope to hell that we could find an Uber or a taxi (oh optimism), and it was under this cloud that we proceeded down to Melun.

Once there, we found that we were, at that point, the only people in our hotel (which explained the fermeture exceptionelle of the hotel restaurant, which itself was the direct cause of our having to eat what I can only describe as the worst meal that I have had in France (maybe continental Europe; British food remains the worst food of this entire phase of our lives as it’s as shitty and low-quality as American food, but without any flavor whatsoever) at a place called Buffalo Grill.

Buffalo Grill is an unabashedly American place (there’s that thin 80’s style carpet on the walls with the chains logo, everything on the menu is American this or American-style that, the preparation of green beans (as observed while awaiting our table) consisted of microwaving a plastic sachet and then dumping the contents on a plate) and it reminded me of a lower-end (shudder) Applebee’s: cheap, low quality, and not very good (though as the Purrito pointed out, at least Applebee’s makes a half-assed attempt at making their food look presentable). No longer hungry (if not sated in any appreciable way), we walked back to our empty hotel in the rain.

The gallery below contains every picture I took in Melun; while the churches and ruins of an abbey that I had identified proved to be in the town (if not accessible), the musée de la gendarmerie was inaccessible via foot.

On the positive side, their waterfront is very aesthetically pleasing.