Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

The Purrito keeps a small navy blue notebook, its cover adorned with ship’s anchors, on one of the bookshelves in our living room. This notebook is home to The List; while lists aren’t by any measure rare in our abode (particularly considering that I run my life off of post-it notes), both of us know that if the directly proceeds list in a conversation, it is this document which will be consulted, modified, pilloried, or in rare occasions, simply ignored.

The List dates back to the early days of our official expatriation to Paris; not being used to having any sort of cultural activity at our disposal (the less said about the Museum of Fine Arts Houston, the better), we quickly found ourselves expressing interest in a given exhibit or museum, forgetting about it, and then being disappointed when the exhibit was no longer open. Thus was born the list, and we’ve fed it with places that we’ve seen while wandering, places we’ve read about, places mentioned in Wikipedia articles on French history, places mentioned by friends and co-workers, and places that bother to put up posters in the métro (which, to be honest, is probably the primary source of activities for The List).

List activities tend to be one-per-day; unless it’s terribly curated (Petit Palais, I’m still looking at you) or in the same building (the Grand Palais), we tend to take our time, read everything that they put up on the walls (or attempt to, depending on how much English text is present and how advanced the French explanations are), and stare at whatever it is we’ve just paid to see. After that, we’ll usually wander off, eat lunch, purchase food for the evening, and acquire some wine (portrait of la belle vie: fezzik in paris style).

As the city remains in the clutches of tourists, we’ve been avoiding effectively all of the better-known sites and knocking the smaller places off of The List. Saturday proved to be particularly productive (not that weekends really need be productive) as we found ourselves between the Saint-Germain and Luxembourg areas, and thus completed three objectives:

  1. See l’église Saint-Sulpice, which we had first spotted from atop tour Montparnasse (another blog black hole here, I see)
  2. Go to musée eugène-delacroix, which was not at all what we had hoped (the societé responsible for the museum had to sell almost all of their actual art to preserve the building; oops)
  3. See l’église saint-germain-des-prés, which I knew was old, though I did not know it was that old (it’s also hard to imagine that it was once outside the city walls in the middle of some fields; the old city was very small)
  4. Take pictures of pigeons (not an explicit objective, but there are 321 pictures tagged “pigeons” in my Lightroom library, so…)

Had Ladurée been closer (or even on the correct side of the river), it could have been the most productive weekend ever (consumption of macarrons is always an objective).

Tomorrow evening we will be returning to Amsterdam (yes, that is trip number three) for SAIL 2015, which seemed like a perfect excuse to pick up the zoom lens that I’ve had my eye on. Sadly, FNAC doesn’t stock the lenses; as I managed to keep putting off going to the store and asking the photo person to order one for me, I found myself running out of time. Enter amazon.fr, which was cheaper and didn’t require bumbling through acquiring the correct lens in French.

The lens arrived yesterday, the box festooned with Polish stickers (they direct you to Nikon.pl) and sealed with a piece of tape stating that said lens is not to be sold separately.

I double-checked the site to see if this was my error, but it wasn’t; the lens is supposed to be new, and is an amazon item and not that of a third party seller.

Thus it would appear that amazon.fr is opening Polish-market Nikon body-and-lens kits and selling their contents separately in another country. Which sounds sleazy to me, and that’s even before I wonder aloud about the quality gap between a kit lens and a made-to-be-sold-independently lens.

As evidenced by the pictures that plague this site, I’m just an asshole with a camera, not a photographer; I’ll thus be keeping the lens, the chunk of change that I probably did not actually “save,” and the vaguely disgusted feeling the situation has evinced.

Way to ruin that new lens excitement, amazon.

Located a block or so northwest of église Madeleine, the chapelle expiatoire sits at the location of the Madeleine cemetery, which was arguably the prime dumping ground for the victims of the Terror.

Now at the center of a small park, Square Louis XVI, that was constructed around it during the Haussmanian re-adjustment of Paris, the monument is a quiet, aesthetically-pleasing surprise in the middle of an expensive neighborhood.

Despite its proximity to Madeleine, tourists appear to be a rarity, as evidenced by the caretaker’s surprise that we were from the States.

As a bonus, there was a friendly (overly) well-fed cat.

Several year ago, Paris jumped on the city-wide bike rental train and started the Vélib’ service. For a unreasonably small fee, you get access to thousands of bikes and a fun alternative to the metro. It is nice to see Paris above ground sometimes, too. Not to mention, it’s good exercise. The bikes themselves are heavy and look more like soviet leftovers with fresh paint jobs, but they work. I joined a few months after we arrived here,but didn’t really start using it much until the last few months. Paris roads can be frightening since they are full of chaos, though the parisians swear that it is all civilized. I have finally gained enough understanding to know which roads to take so that I can stay in bike lanes and avoid, mostly, crazy french drivers.

Today, I decided it would be fun to bike to the Monoprix a few metro stops away, instead of taking the train, to get groceries. Luckily, there is a station just around the corner from our flat. I wandered over to the station, selected my first bike, checked the wheels, adjusted the seat, and scanned my card. The little light turned orange as it processed and then refused to let go of the bike. Hm. I try a few more times, because sometimes they can be a little tricky to get out of the holders. Nothing. Since I was already in a decently sour mood, the bike refusing me was not helping to calm me down. I grumbled at it and decided to try a different bike. I once again check the bike, scan my card, it flashes the orange light, and beeps loudly when it decides I’m not worthy. Fuck you, bike. Fuck you. I keep scanning my card a few more times, thrashing the bike about in its holder and growling at it. Luckily, there was no one around to witness this act of ridiculousness as my display grew more aggressive. I’m sure they would have raised an eyebrow at the girl yelling at an inanimate object on the street. I just wanted to bike to the store, BIKE. I THOUGHT IT WOULD MAKE ME FEEL BETTER, BIKE. FUCK YOU BIKE. LET ME RIDE YOU, BIKE. AHHHHHHHHH. *MELTS DOWN* * KICKS THE BIKE*

*Pause*

Shit…. I walked over to the kiosk and scanned my navigo card. The computer didn’t recognize it. Double shit. This was all my fault. I had recently exchanged my navigo découverte pass for an actual, regular, navigo. This means, that my number changed. I had never gone onto the website to link my new card with the account. No matter how much hate I unleashed upon those little grey suckers, I was never gonna get a bike because I forgot to change my stuff. *sigh* Screw it, I just went to the corner store. I also bought a cappuccino, because I deserved it, dammit. 

This morning I found myself going through various files on my Surface in anticipation of upgrading it to Windows 10.

I wrote a draft of this post on the fifth of August 2014; with the exception of the Paris Plages story (and the lack of a mention of overcrowding on the metro; the RER A is currently shut down between Auber and La défense, so the M1 is a nightmare), the contents are still largely relevant.

I obviously can’t speak for the entirety of France, but in Paris, August marks the French diaspora:

-Where before, I had noticed a significant uptick in the amount of non-French that was being spoken in the subway and the city,    I’ve now come to the realization that Parisians really do abandon the city to the tourists [1] for the entire month;
-There is a noticeable dearth of businesspersons (or any persons, at least compared to normal levels) on my morning train in to work;
-The afternoon train home is effectively composed solely of tourists [2];
-Scores [3] of the normal businesses in our area are shut down;
-Nights are markedly quieter [4];
-I’m pretty sure that we’re the last ones in our apartment building [5];
-Were I to be here for another August [6], I would get the hell out of dodge.

[1] Speaking of which, we actually witnessed a pickpocketing on Sunday while we were at the Paris Plages. Two girls working in a “sign this petition” team apparently didn’t quite understand that they were supposed to work as a team, with one of them distracting the victim. Instead, one of them simply reached into an open purse and picked what we assume to be a wallet. The owner of said purse squeaked, thus prompting her companion to chase and then grab the girl’s wrist and start yelling at her. Lousy pickpocket number two started yelling at the guy to let lousy pickpocket number two go. A security guard was walking up as we cleared the scene, so we weren’t party to the final outcome of this particular disturbance; while we were both in running clothes and thus had nothing of value on us but our house keys, it’s known that the caravan-dwellers travel in packs (confirmed by the presence of at least one instance of the infamous three-shell-game within spitting distance), so we were disinclined to gawk.
[2] headed to the Eiffel Tower and completely confused about what one should do when one exits a metro train (hint: standing right in front of the train doors and then moving to block the exit doors while lowing is not the correct answer)
[3] (or what feels like scores), all with little notes taped up noting that they’ll be back at the end of the month
[4] fortunately for everyone involved (as the French don’t believe in air conditioners), the nights have been Albuquerque-like in that the temperature drops nearly 20 degrees F, so our bedroom windows are effectively always open. As such, I’m comfortable in making sweeping observations regarding night time noise, though I will admit that the Purrito, who doesn’t sleep with earplugs, is likely more qualified to
[5] aside from the gardienne, her cat (our name for the cat: trash cat. The cat’s name: Gucci), and the neighbor that seems to be drilling holes in his walls
[6] important subconditional: and were I to be statutorily entitled to five weeks of vacation

Everything we’ve ever done or will do, we’re gonna do over and over again.

Today is a uniquely Parisian brand of beautiful day. In many places, days like these would be cast off as miserable or dreary, but Paris seems to lay down and purr when they happen. A soft rain has glazed the sidewalks in an early morning shower, allowing cozy gray clouds to blanket the city. The hush of early August, mostly due to the great exodus of the French for holidays, has added an additional layer of softness that you cannot find at any other time of year. This unusual silence is only broken when small bands of tourists meander down the street in search of open cafes to rest their feet, and the random clack of a Parisian in heels on her way to procure croissants for breakfast.  Occasionally, the music of the church choir hauntingly drifts up and into our flat, punctuated only by the gongs of the clock lazily counting down the day. Temporarily, the weather has taken pity on us city-dwellers and allowed for a listless, but chilly, breeze to run between the buildings gleefully, keeping the temperature at a wonderful Goldilocks medium. (Not too hot, not too cold, just right). The allure of this morning was enough for us to disengage our normal Sunday tactics of flirting to see who would venture out to purchase the coffee. Instead, we laid down our arms and went together. It is the kind of day that makes you long for autumn, and teases of it with the few dried leaves fallen from the trees due to summer heat. It makes you want nothing more than to stroll along the Seine, clutching a cup of coffee, and trade muted conversations with close friends. The sweet melancholy mood does not make you feel sadness, but instead a deep satisfying calm.  When that breeze brushes passed you and tussles your hair, you pull it into your lungs ferociously, feeling it nourish even the deepest parts of your chest. It is possible to pull the outside calmness in, allowing an impromptu meditation that is both unexpected, and much needed.

These are the days I will use as framework to build my daydreams when we eventually leave our adopted home.

When I think of Paris, I will think of days like these the most.

As the Purrito often reminds me, our long-weekend vacations are supposed to be restful. The transit phase never is, or so it seems to me, and the movement phases of our weekend in Prague came dangerously close to damaging my calm at several points.
On the way there, we had:

  1. The closure of the RER C, which, while a known wrinkle, led to our utilization of the substitute bus, which was to take us to Saint-Michel and on to the RER B ;
  2. Said bus, however was slow. Unreasonably slow and in traffic that was abnormally, unexpectedly heavy for a random Thursday afternoon (though Friday and Saturday were apparently the exit days for the French populace’s August holidays, so I suppose we caught the leading edge;
  3. We thus exited the bus several stops ahead of our intended destination and proceeded to hike to Saint-Michel. Once there, we couldn’t find a working entrance to the RER B, despite the fact that the RATP app said that the station was still open;
  4. Thwarted, we hopped in a taxi and told the driver to take us to CDG. Fifteen minutes and but a few blocks later, we understood why his eyes had gone wide as he asked us incredulously, “Charles de Gualle?” Going nowhere, we requested that he divert to Gare du Nord, as we would pick up the RER B there, and continue on to CDG;
  5. Arriving at Gare du Nord, we waited on what looked like a non-stop train that did not show. We thus took the slow train that showed up in its stead;
  6. At CDG, perhaps predictably, our plane was delayed;
  7. On the plane, we were stuck (seat selection in the airport, and seeing as we were late, we had literally no choice in the matter) next to a guy who seemed to be having issues with this whole “flying” thing. Our hypotheses varied from him simply being grumpy to perhaps needing a cigarette to perhaps being genuinely ill (particularly given his expressed agitation level), but one he abruptly got up, grabbed his phone, marched over to another aisle seat two rows back, and plunked down next to the sleeping couple I quit giving much of a damn since he wasn’t our problem any longer.

Coming back:

  1. Sitting at the gate, we began to grow concerned at the lack of a plane. When one showed up at the time we were supposed to board, we were relieved, though less so as the boarding time ratcheted past the time at which we were supposed to be taking off;
  2. Having made it into the plane, our flight was uneventful, save for the douchehog dudebro next to the Purrito with his stunningly loud music (which I suspect was why he, for lack of a better term, hooted at the flight attendant for his snack (he’d been passed up by said flight attendant as he was pointedly staring out a window, and when the Purrito tried and failed to get his attention to give him his half-frozen brownie, the attendant told her that the dudebro could push the button if he really wanted one))
  3. Oh, and the turbulence as we came into CDG. Watching the Purrito turn green was alarming;
  4. And then the RER B back. Smiling impishly at each other as we went through the access point, past a family whose patriarch was attempting to pry the doors open (best guess: they bought the intra-Paris tickets, as opposed to the CDG-to-airport tickets), we boarded the train for what was supposed to be a 25 minute ride to Gare du Nord and then another 20 or so minutes back to our apartment;
  5. Two hours, a stop at Stade de France, several stops on a random section of the tracks, a stop in the tunnel leading up to Gare du Nord, and untold kilometres of moving at less than walking speed later, we arrived back home.

What then, of Prague?

That’s an oddly difficult question to answer; certain parts of it were fantastic (like the hotel room, which the Purrito snagged for a ridiculous rate via an Expedia flash sale, and which was bigger than our flat here in Paris, or the Mucha museum, or the Slav Epic (which required 40 minutes of hiking, a river crossing, and a wander through the very-dead-on-the-weekend business district), or the inside of the Old-New Synagogue (they gave me (read: made all males wear) a chapeau yarmulke), or beer and pizza in a place overlooking Wenceslas square (sadly not as good as the place in Budapest)) while other parts were less so (like the astronomical clock, which is markedly more ornate but still less inspiring than the one in Rouen, or the unpleasant (possibly counterfeit (read: pig asshole)) calamari and sauceless vegetable lasagne that I had for lunch on the first day or the seemingly endless army of tourists (broken into platoons by tour groups, and then into squads by families) or the lousy communism museum (per their poster: located above McDonald’s)).

Perhaps it was the city itself; I don’t harbor any ill will towards Prague; it’s a rather nice place. That said, it’s machine tourism in peak form: street performers, “authentic Czech food” (cosmopolitan Czechs don’t eat the traditional cuisine), and souvenir shops around every corner. I realize that it’s a strange complaint coming from someone who lives in Paris (per Euromonitor, Paris is second while Prague is fifth on the list of most-visited European cities), but there’s something intangible that just seems to be off.

The beer, however, is genuinely pretty good.

We currently have a leak; the drainage pipe that descends from the upstairs neighbor’s shower (our best guess, anyway) is currently dripping water into a large bucket that we hurriedly purchased a couple of hours ago.

After calls to our rental agency and then the insurance company’s help line, the only thing we’ve been told is “get a bucket, and call the agency tomorrow.”

All of this despite the fact that I don’t think that it’s the actual pipe leaking, but something above it, meaning that the water is infiltrating the wall and simply exiting via the exterior of the pipe.

The building gardienne doesn’t have a key to that flat, nor a contact phone number, so we’re apparently supposed to simply sit tight unless the leak becomes “really bad,” at which point we’re supposed to call the pompiers so they can enter the apartment and turn off the water.

Here’s hoping that he has decent insurance.

In my anger at USAA last week (hey bank, yeah, you: Fuck you.), I managed to forget that we went to Rouen.

This fourth journey to Rouen (unfortunately there’s a post detailing our New Year’s Eve exploits sitting in a text file somewhere; I think it would be a little weird to add it now) was embarked upon with three goals:

  1. We were to relax;
  2. We were to escape the heat;
  3. We were to shop (it’s soldes season, and Rouen (read: anywhere, really) is cheaper than Paris to begin with, so we figured we’d find some deals. Ask the Purrito about my chouette new shoes for work…)

We accomplished the entirety of this list, though we added a strange wrinkle; the food sucked. A new pizza place, a lackluster bagel joint, and a terrible, terrible restaurant (we both seem to have gotten mildly sick at the haché chicken burger) were all awful.

We’ll stick to the (mediocre, if safe) pizza joint next time.

As I watch the last of le tour de france in another windown (thank you, Orange TV), my thoughts turn to how cold and wet my feet currently are. While the weather for last year’s finale was further along the trés chaud axis, the weather this year was damn near cold. And wet. So very wet. On the positive side, though, the route through Paris took the tour down one of the main streets in our area; meaning I had to walk all of seven or so minutes to get to the corner on which I wanted to stand. With the rain came lousy light, so there’s a lot of blurriness; still, not a bad batch of photographs.