Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

In a (perhaps not-so) rare occurrence of indecision, I’m not entirely sure as to what my actual opinion is with regards to last week’s trip to Mykonos. Accompanied by Pierre, our Greek island adventure occasionally felt much more like a study in dipoles than in consistency:

  • While the view from the villa was outstanding, the price was a remote villa;
  • While the location of said remote villa was indeed away from the madness of Mykonos town, the price was being forced to drive, for the first time in 2.5 years, an old stick-shift panda down (and up, most alarmingly) single lane mountain roads with grades that I’ve never seen outside of 4×4 trails;
  • The villa itself: two floors, two balconies, decently equipped kitchen. Also, no hot water for the first three days;
  • While our little area of the island (Ornos/Corfos) wound up being quite pleasant, Mykonos town was strangely terrible (even discounting for the harrowing wrong path we took on the way to one of three marked petrol stations on the island);
  • The Purrito and I both bought kombolois (my second [Athens], her first), but we somehow skipped buying anything else, really (perhaps this isn’t necessarily such a negative point);
  • Three bottles of what appeared to be decent-quality wine turned out to be swill (Orson’ tap water is non-potable), while the 3.80€ bottle of “table wine,” which did not even come in a wine bottle, but a pop-top mini carafe, wound up being the best damn wine of the trip;
  • The neighbor’s rooster alarm clock was funny at first, but then we found out that roosters don’t just cocorico when the sun comes up, these uselessly inconsistent timekeeping devices cocorico whenever the flying fuck they feel like it, which can range from approximately on the hour to every ten minutes or so.

In the strictly positive category, I find it hard to complain about more or less subsisting off of chicken gyros, which are both tasty and cheap in Ornos (god help you if you’re dumb enough to want one in Mykonos town). Our foray into the (surprisingly cold) waters off of Ornos beach and subsequent nap in the sun was probably the highlight of the trip, though I’m still not sure what crime I committed that merited being pursued by a black-finned silver fish that decided nipping my ankles was appropriate retribution.

I guess I had a pretty decent time.

Strictly speaking, it is not the fault of Lenovo that I am sitting here, some two hours later, attempting to salvage my over-30-gigabyte Lightroom library while wondering if I am going to be able to recover anything else from the HDD of my former Y510p. I would argue that it is Lenovo’s fault that I even bought (two; one for me and one for the Purrito) of the damn pieces of junk before we came over here on the sole basis of my love for my T60p which, to my knowledge, is still pulling email duty at my mother’s house some eight years after I bought it (and five after I gifted it to her).

Lenovo did not make me drop the computer, but it did give it a wifi card that connects when it wants to. It provided m2 ssds that never worked. It provided a screen that flickered for no apparent reason. It provided two batteries (one for each laptop) that dies within 11 months of having purchased the computers (under completely different usage profiles).

Most of the time I roll my eyes when a given product or manufacturer “used to do it right,” but IBM, you seriously suck for having sold your hardware division to Lenovo. These things used to be legendary (and who gives a fuck about a company whose only mindshare comes from derpy ads for consulting services in Wired, a magazine that I don’t know why I read anymore (hypocrisy alert: Wired used to be so much better).

So to hell with you Lenovo, and to hell with this Y510p. It was an ignominious end; it slipped out of my hand while I was trying to find somewhere in the room where it would be willing to connect to the router.

Enjoy the industrial recycling shredder, you useless pile of junk.

Last Saturday’s return to Versailles (note: technical difficulties have ensued. confession: I bought a “One Year at Versailles – Duo” membership for the two of us) was spent on the cusp of perfection. Having been thwarted from going last week by heat and a sick Purrito, we managed to make it to Versailles in time for the exhibit that we wanted to see: Versailles et l’independence americaine.

While the exhibits at Versailles are normally very well curated, and while this one contained a number of nice paintings, primary documents, and the odd musket or two, its focus was the military involvement of the ancien régime which, while massive and nearly entirely ignored in the US, is perhaps less interesting than the political and financial support, and the reasons behind said support (I somehow doubt that the infamous Texas history textbooks would be willing to posit that the revolt of a relative backwater of a colony was successful largely due to the interest one empire had in poking another empire in the eye).

Despite my intentions for this post to be about our wandering through the gardens, I now find myself hesitant to write about it; the memory is so pleasant, the associated feelings so warm, that I fear documenting the experience may sully it.


When I was in sixth grade, as part of the admission process for the middle school/high school from which I would eventually graduate, I had to sit for an interview. For one of the questions, I was asked to describe a perfect day. I am unable say what the actual version of a perfect day would have been for me at that time (though I suppose it would have involved being left alone to read somewhere), but I do remember feeling that the question was an important one, so I tried to imagine what a perfect day should have been to me (read: I lied): I said I’d go hiking (I never went hiking) with my dog (I hated that dog) in the mountains (even then, mountains were cool with me). Pressed for specifics about what my perfect lunch on this perfect day would be, I lied again, though less interestingly, in retrospect: I said I’d eat a bagel (rubbery, having been defrosted (per my mother, bagels were to be stored in the freezer)) with cream cheese (eh) and ham (Oscar meyer, which I would still despise if it was not for the fact that I don’t eat pork).


Wandering with the Purrito through the gardens of Versailles with the grass still green, the flowers blooming, the statues yet uncovered, the fountains flowing, was a day as close to perfection as I can imagine, even in spite of the rain, the crowd, the ticking clock (we had to depart in time to get to Tosca), and the desire to just stay for a while longer.

It was a perfect day, and one that I would never have seen coming, one that it never would have occurred to me to conjure out of thin air.

Oh, and Tosca? Tosca was pretty damn good, too

Mawwiage is what [bwought] us here together today.

Such was my excuse for standing in line at Shakespeare and Company last night, though I may have phrased it somewhat differently:

Random woman: What’s going on here tonight?

Me: Huh? (I had been scanning the crowd in an attempt to determine the source of the wine glasses that many people had in hand)

RW: What’s going on? Why are you standing in line?

Me: Oh, uh. I don’t know. You’d have to ask my wife. (Cue pointing at the Purrito, who was coming to reclaim her place in line, having asked me to hold her spot as she tried to ascertain how fast said line was likely to move).

I had already resumed my hunt for the wine source as the Purrito explained the situation to the woman (a book signing [of which I knew] for a book about which I had never previously heard [Lauren Elkin’s Flâneuse]).

Epilogue: the Purrito’s book was signed, the author seemed thrilled to be there, and I came away with a book on Fouquet in recompense for the line standing and unsuccessful hunt for booze. The rat that was perilously close to my foot (I also walked around “rat park” as the Purrito stood in line) was also avoided at the last moment (sorry about the close call, Master Splinter), so I’d be inclined to call it a pretty good evening.

It has long been the opinion of the editorial board that Fezzik needs a job; at 11 kilos and a size larger than the majority of the dogs seen on Paris streets, there is simply no reason that Fezzik could not find a career as a rat catcher or a draft horse.

Unlike Fezzik, the cat in the picture below is gainfully employed; like many cats associated with owners of boulangeries, this cat has been relocated to the shop while his owner goes on vacation. Tasked with catching or at least keeping at bay any interlopers of the rodentia kind (we are discussing a bread shop here), a human fiend of the owner checks in and feeds the cat during the owner’s August sojourn, while the cat does his thing.

This specimen is apparently so fearsome to the local grain thieves that he need only stretch himself out in the window, so as to warn them that any attempt at infiltration will lead to certain death and dismemberment. Alternately, he is as lazy as Fezzik is, and he spends his days laying in the sun doing precisely fuckall, save for eating too much cat food and tracking litter everywhere.

We’re optimists, here; I firmly believe that this cat is working his ass off.

Fezzik, take note.

He certainly is comfortable.

He certainly is comfortable.

The past week has been far, far too warm (and hey, the news officially declared a canicule so we have that going for us), so we slunk off to La défense this weekend; tourism is down so far this year that even the nicer hotels (like, for example, the Hilton in CNIT) are cheap at the moment, and more importantly, they are air conditioned.

Wandering aimlessly through Les quatre temps without purpose resulted in a somewhat strange purchasing streak; we now have an elephant candle (to be lit during date nights), new dress shoes for me (the soles of both pairs of Eccos that I brought from the States have passed into the rapidly-disintegrating phase), and a Nespresso machine that we will have to eventually ship back to the US, somehow (the Purrito is hopelessly addicted to coffee, and has wanted one since we arrived in Paris).

We have, however, been careful to lie to the cats; I’ve already reassured them that at no point did we have the AC in the room so low that we slept comfortably under a full-thickness comforter.

More than two years ago, the first museum that the Purrito and I visited, our first encounter with Parisian cultural activities, the first time that we decided to seize a weekend and do something new, we went to Le musée du quai Branly because it was close and because the Purrito had read that it was a beautiful museum.

Looking back at that first visit, I am struck by how surprising it was that we tried again, how we promptly got back on the horse and kept doing things, how we did not immediately decide that our plans for weekend culture activities were irredeemably flawed; as we learned again this past weekend when we decided that heading back for an exhibit on Jacques Chirac (who was effectively the father of the museum) was better than doing nothing, this museum simply sucks.

While the building is indeed impressive (and air conditioned), its focus (“ethnic” artifacts that the Louvre never gave enough of a fuck to take out of their packing crates) is stunningly boring; there’s some amusement in the associated backstory (much like the British Museum, the collection is really a “hey look at all of this cool shit we looted,” without having looted Greek statues, temples, or anything aside from some ugly-ass drums), but looking at spears and fetishes and carved whale bones (“yeah, I guess that might look kind of like a human”) was as fucking terrible last week as it was two years ago. Even the exhibit on Chirac (a genuinely interesting politician) had very little to do with Chirac and more to do with the handwringing over what to do with all of the crap that the Louvre didn’t want and that the musée de l’homme couldn’t be trusted to display in a non-racist manner.

The gift shop was, however, acceptable (the Purrito bought a colorful 29€ sock monkey hand-made by former sex slaves in Thailand), and the museum was air conditioned, so there are a few positive attributes.

The weekend before last weekend (last weekend being the weekend in which we went to Dublin), the Purrito and I watched a movie called The Lobster. The Lobster is a darkly comedic not-quite-science-fiction movie set in a dystopic near-future in which newly-single people are sent to a “resort” where they have 45 days to find a new partner, lest they be turned into the animal of their choice. Colin Farrell plays David, a man whose spouse has just left him, and who has selected to be turned into a lobster should he fail to regain his status as a member of a couple. Being married (I’m waving at the Purrito), I would not be at the resort, though if I were sent to said resort, I would ask to be turned into one of those gnarly mountain goats that pop up in photographs of landscapes which you stare at and then ask yourself man, can anything other than fucking birds and photographers in helicopters actually see this place? Colin Farrell is from Dublin. While in Dublin, we visited the Guinness storehouse, and on one floor, they had recipes that use Guinness as an ingredient. One of these recipes was for Guinness lobster. I bought a t-shirt that proclaims that lobsters love Guinness, though I do not believe that the people who run Guinness have a source for this assertion.

At this point, my attempt at stream-of-consciousness style writing (Ulysses was set in Dublin) is confusing me (in addition to being more a series of non-sequiturs and perhaps run-on sentences), so I’m going to hang it up, though not before I confess that I have not actually read Ulysses, though amongst the bulk of our worldly possessions sitting in storage in Texas, I do have a very nice hardback Modern Library version that my mother gave me as a birthday present back in high school.

I’m serious this time, I’m stopping.