Fezzik In Paris

Two Americans, three cats, and too many places named "de Gaulle"

For reasons unknown to us beyond “well, why the hell not?”, we decided to go for a mostly-French-style Christmas eve feast, albeit with a few modifications (said modifications consisted of omitting two courses [oysters and St. Jacques] and moving the beginning of the festivities to 1700, as the whole eat-from-midnight-to-0600 thing is not at all compatible with our sleep schedules).

It’s difficult to pinpoint where exactly things went quite as wrong as they did, but our festive tablecloth gave its life that we might feast. This post is dedicated to it.

This is why we can’t have nice things.

As the miniature sapins that would actually fit in our flat are rapidly approaching their expiration date, we bought a small cypress tree; it’s apparently hardy and thus should survive in the planter on the balcony once we’re finished staring at it, it’s “green” per the Purrito, it is sturdy enough to hold the popcorn strings and paper cranes that make up the bulk of our Christmas decorating, and it’s festive (every time I make the statement “it’s festive,” the Purrito giggles; this makes me feel like the campaign manager for Jeb Bush who told the NYT that the exclamation point on the signs [Jeb!] was “meant to convey enthusiasm”).

Naturally, the furry bastards are out for blood (sap, I suppose).

Here’s to hoping our noble cypres de noël makes it through the winter.

While this is not Fezzik, you can be sure that should he succeed, the bounty will be shared by all.

While this is not Fezzik, you can be sure that should he succeed, the bounty will be shared by all.

Prior to our leisurely walk to le Musée du Luxembourg for the Fantin-Latour exhibit, we hit the market street with two purposes: normal weekend shopping and pre-holiday shopping. After procuring part of the wine, but before hitting the épicerie, we wandered into the boucherie with hopes that it was possible to procure something resembling a small goose.

Throwing the 5.3 kilo bird (complete with head and feet) atop the scale, the butcher laughed as we told him that we were looking for something for the two of us. Just to ensure that we understood how bad of an idea cooking the 103€ goose for just the two of us was, I’m fairly sure that he said that we’d be eating duck for at least the next ten days by repeating “Demain? Oie,” the requisite number of times.

Fortunately for us, canettes (juvenile ducks approximately the size of a chicken) are available, so while my dream of a holiday goose (I’m running on the assumption that anything that has such a tasty liver must itself be pretty damn good) was dashed, I’m not going to complain about duck, even if we won’t be eating it for the next week and a half.

The weekend before last’s trip to Brussels (yes, I am behind) for their version of the marché de noël featured a significant amount of wandering, the consumption of copious quantities of hardly-healthy food that still somehow was tailored to each of our dietary needs (read: the Purrito tackled the sausages while I consumed an unholy number of waffles), and surprisingly little beer (as it turns out, the Foulard champagne dôme proved to be more inviting than the Leffe beer hut).

While we had both had our doubts regarding how wise heading to Brussels would be, said worries were never revisited once underway as both the French and Belgian police and military apparatuses were clearly projecting force; from the moment we stepped on the Thalys (now featuring sizable Police nationale patrols on the journey there, and Belgian police on the way back), we were never more than a few minutes away from seeing either a police or a Belgian military patrol, which is noteworthy given that I distinctly remember wondering aloud as to what a Belgian cop looked like during our inaugural trip in May of 2015.

While I think our sole purchase from the market, aside from the food and the wine, was limited to a large tea mug with a pair of cuddling owls, we had quite the time wandering through the market and around Brussels. This despite the frenzied calculations, projections, and hypothetical plans that came with discovering that the bed and breakfast we were staying in was being sold for an entirely reasonable (if still ever so slightly out of reach) amount.

Sigh.

Two data points do not a trend make (nor even indicate), but we seem to be turning into people who show up for book signings.

Last Thursday’s signing was for Craig Carlson’s Pancakes in Paris. Under normal circumstances, I am not one to give much of a shit about pancakes, at least from a literary perspective (though the Purrito would likely question my commitment to books about, amongst other subjects, Paris (The Seven Ages of Paris and The Fall of Paris), France (A History of Modern France), the French Revolution (The Terror and Citizens), Napoléon (Napoléon: A Life), or, for something entirely different, Nicolas Fouquet (The Man Who Outshone the Sun King), but this recitation of my reading backlog is an unnecessary baring of yet another of my flaws) but I had an ulterior motive; the termination of an irrational dream.

Specifically, I was hoping the book would thoroughly shit on our idea to open a bar or a café (don’t lecture me, I know the failure rates) here in hopes of staying permanently. I am yet unable to vouch for whether the book will be at all effective at quashing any of these daydreams of ours (though the literary pub idea that we came up with while drinking whisky in Dublin sounds really fucking cool; the idea just is not solid enough to immediately sell the house back in the States and empty my retirement account) as the Purrito claimed both the dedication (in fairness, I wasn’t going to push to the front of the signing line) and the jus primae noctis for the book, though I remain flummoxed that when she not-so-laughingly inquired about franchising, we weren’t laughed out of the tea room.

Subsequent to my failed attempt to reconcile myself to whatever fate eventually awaits me should I return to the barely-veiled barbarity that the US terms a healthcare system, we took a walk through the Opéra district. Chilly, but for the most part in high spirits, we wandered to Printemps, with their disappointingly crappy display windows, and on to Galleries Lafayette, with their much better windows featuring papercraft polar bears invading and pillaging Christmas villages.

Thus the pictures.

Unlike Florence, which was long on boobs, Venice was short on boobs and long on lions; this is hardly surprising when one considers that the Lion of Saint-Mark was the symbol of the city.

It’s also an excuse for another gallery, so here we go.

I am finding that my feelings towards Venice are difficult to synthesize.

We went in what was apparently the deep off-season, so while we traded the teeming masses for cold and wet weather, both the Purrito and I felt that the almost-haunted feel of the city, with the heavy fog and not-always-so-elegant state of decay gave us an entirely different opinion than the one we would have had if our trip had been in the middle of the summer.

With regards to art, the city, is unquestionably second or even third tier; the doge’s palace, the accademia, even museo correr all held art that is by no means bad, but is hard to engage with when we’ve seen so much better.

I don’t know that Venice really has a distinct cuisine; we ate an exceptional seafood meal at the French-named, but Italian-serving Chat qui rit, but I was otherwise confined to eating forgettable pizza, lousy gelato, and things that weren’t quite cornetti. I considered going back to Florence or Rome for a cornetto; they’re absurdly good.

All of that said, we had quite the time shopping, (illegally) feeding pigeons, visiting the doge’s palace, sneaking pictures in Saint-Mark’s basilica, finding Saint-Mark’s lion around nearly every corner, and tromping around without a single damnable automobile within 3km (not counting those stuck on the ferries cutting across the lagoon).

Unlike many of the cities we’ve been (for rhetorical purposes, Florence and Rome), I can’t picture us living in Venice; it has an aura of a city that one does not actually live in. Offered a chance to return during another off-season though, I would almost undoubtedly agree.

 

In the processed-the-pictures-but-never-quite-got-around-to-posting-them category, I have a handful of shots from a couple of weeks back in which we thoroughly raided the petit palais,

Short version: Oscar Wilde wasdisappointing, l’art de la paix was fucking amazing (they had the signed and sealed peace treaty between François I and Henry VIII, amongst other documents), and modernités belle epoque was in the avoid-at-all-costs category.